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THE VOYAGE 

OF A 

VICE-CHANCELLOR 



THE VOYAGE 

OF A 

VICE-CHANCELLOR 

WITH A CHAPTER ON UNIVERSITY 
EDUCATION IN THE UNITED STATES 



BY 

ARTHUR EVERETT SHIPLEY 

MASTER OF CHRIST's COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE; 
VICE-CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY. 
F.R.S., SC.D., HON. D.SC, PRINCE- 
TON; HON. LL.D., MICHIGAN. 



NEW YORK 

G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 

1919 



. ^ '^ Aj 



Copyright, 1919, by 
ARTHUR EVERETT SHIPLEY 



3EC 13 iUi3 



^CI.A55 9 26 



GENTI 

INTER OMNES GENTES 

HOSPITIBUS 

BENIGNISSIMAE 



Preface 

The following extracts are from a private 
diary which the author wrote whilst on an 
extensive tour in the United States during 
the autumn of 19,18 as a member of the 
British University Mission. Our Mission 
had been invited to the United States by 
the Council of Defense at Washington and 
had been sent out under the auspices of the 
British Foreign Office. For more than 
sixty days we went up and down a vast 
country, travelling many thousands of miles, 
and, seeing so many Universities and Col- 
leges and so many Presidents and Professors 
that those amongst us who had not hitherto 
had the privilege of visiting the United 

States formed the idea that all its cities are 
vii 



Vlll 



Preface 



university cities and that all the inhabitants 
are professors, an idea very awful to 
contemplate ! 

As the author has tried to indicate in his 
Dedication, everywhere we went we met 
with kindness, and kindness that came from 
the brain as well as from the heart. But 
especially we owe thanks to certain "guides, 
philosophers, and friends" who shepherded 
our steps. One of these, an official of the 
United States Bureau of Education at 
Washington, accompanied us on the whole 
tour. His extraordinary powers of organiza- 
tion, his inexhaustible information, and his 
ready and self-sacrificing help, cannot be 
too highly praised. Others who helped us 
on our trip were: the Secretary of the 
Reception Committee of the Council (a 
professor of Harvard), who met us on our 
arrival at New York and accompanied us 
to Washington, and later to Boston; the 
American Secretary of the Rhodes Scholars 



Preface 



IX 



(a professor of the Massachusetts Institute 
of Technology), who guided us from Boston 
to Chicago. From Chicago to Minneapolis 
we had the great advantage of the presence 
of the Chairman of the Reception Commit- 
tee of the American Council on Education 
(a President of one of the leading Colleges 
in the Middle West) ; and the President of 
the University of Kentucky travelled with 
us from St. Louis to Lexington, where his 
own University is situate. All these gentle- 
men were ever ready and helpful in explain- 
ing the intricacies of American university 
life. We were fortunate enough to meet 
them at many centres, and always found the 
same helpful advice, and care for our wel- 
fare. To each and all of them we owe a 
deep debt of gratitude. 

Certain parts of this Diary have appeared 
in Scribner's Magazine, New York, and 
others in Country Life, London, and one 
section entitled ''The Universities" has ap- 



X 



Preface 



peared in The Edinburgh Review. This is 
a more serious account of the facilities pro- 
vided by the United States for Higher Edu- 
cation. It is, of course, very incomplete; 
but it is impossible to compass within a small 
book the immense variety of organization 
and the varied range of subjects the Mission 
encountered on its voyage. The owners and 
editors of these publications have given the 
author leave to reprint and he thanks them. 

A. E. S. 

St. George's Day, 1919. 



"It is always a writer's duty to make the world better." 

Dr. Johnson. 



CONTENTS 



The Voyage of a Vice-Chancellor "^ . i 

University Education in the United 
States 143 



Chapter I 
The Atlantic 



"In the midst of this sublime and terrible storm, Dame 
Partington . . . was seen at the door of her house, 
with mop and pattens, trundling her mop, squeezing 
out the sea-water, and vigorously pushing away the 
Atlantic Ocean. The Atlantic was roused. Mrs. 
Partington's spirit was up;, but I need not tell you 
that the contest was unequal. The Atlantic Ocean 
beat Mrs. Partington. She was excellent at a slop, 
or a puddle, but she should not have meddled with 
a tempest." 

Sydney Smith, Speech on the Reform Bill, 
delivered at Taunton, England, Oct. iz, 183 1. 

September 25th, 1918 

THE present passport is pink, printed 
on pink paper with little red lines 
criss-crossing all about it. Gone — 
and probably gone for ever — are those aris- 
tocratic old passports with fine lettering on 
fine paper, down the face of which ran a 
stream of historic titles which, in the two the 



2 The Voyage of 

Government basely forced me to surrender in 
exchange for the present pink abomination, 
began with a Marquisate and trickled 
through the lower degrees of the peerage un- 
til one ended in a Barony or two, and the 
other fell as low as a Baronetcy. So many 
historic titles seemed to justify the ''We," 
which reads a little odd as, "We, Arthur 
James Balfour." Each of my old passports 
was studded over with "vises" and "permis- 
sos" and covered over with gorgeous Russian 
and Turkish stamps and much Cyrillic and 
Arabic script. These I had to give up in ex- 
change for a common-looking paper marked 
by a rubber stamp in violet-blue ink, which 
simply "shouted" at the pink, with the word 
"seen." 

' The older form could be folded up and 
put away in a pocket-book and forgotten till 
asked for, the new form is bound up in cheap 
green boards of such a size as to be always, 
intruding on one, no matter how wide one's 



A Vice-Chancellor 3 

pockets are. The old passport had the reti- 
cence of a gentleman and was content with 
your signature, the new one clamours for vul- 
gar details about your age and personal ap- 
pearance, and it gets them. 

The difference between passports ancient 
and modern may be compared with the dif- 
ference between a clean £5 note, with its 
crisp, white paper, fine lettering and the 
romance of its secret signs, and that modern 
form of "filthy lucre" the current 10s. note. 

Thursday, September 26th 

We arrived at our Port of Embarka- 
tion in a gale and it continued to blow all the 
night, and all the next day, 

Friday, September 27th 

during which we wistfully tried to 
fulfil the divergent and incoherent instruc- 
tions we had severally received from the 



4 The Voyage of 

Minister of Information : and it blew all the 
night of that day. On 



Saturday, September 28tK 

it blew worse than ever and our pessi- 
mist, who is an authority on weather, cheered 
us up by assuring us that we were embark- 
ing at the very worse time of the year and 
that we should have equinoctial gales the 
whole way across. 

It wasn't so easy to get on board. We 
stood in a vast, damp, dreary dock in two 
queues, saloon passengers and steerage pas- 
sengers, and waited to have our papers in- 
spected. Our inspector was of a slowness 
beyond words and when at last I was 
getting near to him I was so angered by a 
pompous man "on somebody's staff" pushing 
ahead of all of us and engaging in an inter- 
minable conversation with our man, that I 
deserted my class and joined the steerage 



A Vice-Chancellor 5 

group and was on board in five minutes. 
I was a little sorry that I did this as I saw 
a poor old Jamaican negro "turned down." 
Some one had told him that Jamaica was 
in America and he had, with a fine impar- 
tiality, registered on one paper as an 
American citizen and on another as a British 
citizen. I wonder what became of him. I 
suppose I shall never know. 

Later in the day I had my revenge on 
the staff man. He turned out to be a suc- 
cessful writer of the more vacuous forms of 
revue, and he took his art and himself very 
seriously. After luncheon he changed his 
tunic and put on a Norfolk jacket so that 
down to his waist his torso or bust was 
civilian, whilst below his waist his lower 
extremities were military. In effecting this 
exchange something had gone wrong with his 
braces and all that afternoon and evening 
he walked about in a stately and haughty 
way festooned behind with loops which 



6 The Voyage of 

recalled the flowery swags of Mantegna's 
pictures. 

Sunday, September 29th 

On Sunday morning we moved from 
the dock into the river and waited till tea- 
time on its muddy and rubbish-laden waters. 
The wind had completely dropped and a 
sabbath-calm and a river-fog lay on every- 
thing. All day we waited swinging with 
the tide until about 5 p.m. when we felt 
the first delicious thrill of the engine at 
work. All this day large tenders laden with 
hundreds and hundreds of American soldiers 
passed us going up-stream to the City on 
their way from the troop-ships lying further 
down near the mouth of the river. 

On coming on board on the previous day 
it became obvious that when not on deck 
we should be living entirely in artificial 
light. All windows and port-holes had 



A Vice-Chancellor 7 

been made absolutely light-proof and whilst 
the public saloon and state-rooms were bril- 
liantly lit up, no ray of light was allowed 
to leave them. After dark the decks were 
quite black and if you groped on to them 
it was through heavy curtains and blackened 
doors. The insignificant glow of a cigarette 
was strictly forbidden and the darkness of 
the outside was infinitely darker than Cam- 
bridge or even Norwich at its worst. 

During the morning each passenger was 
given a Boddy's Life Jacket and at 4 pJm. 
we were paraded on Deck B and received 
a card indicating which boat was ours, and 
to this we went. An officer — who ought to 
be a University Lecturer — then in one of the 
clearest, concisest and shortest of speeches 
told us what we were to do in case there was 
need to do anything. We were all wearing 
the life-jackets and I had thought we should 
feel a little self-conscious, if not ludicrous, 
but we didn't. It all seemed so natural, and 



8 [The Voyage of 

so much in the day's work, that one took it 
as though one had worn such robes for years. 
These jackets are stuffed with the fibres 
known commercially as kapok. For the 
following account of this vegetable product 
I am indebted to Mr. L. H. Dewey of the 
Bureau of Plant Industry, Washington, 
whose letter I quote: 

The name kapok is a Malay name, applied to 
a cotton-like down produced in the seed pods of 
the kapok, or randoe, tree, Ceiba pentandra. 
This tree is native in the West Indies and in 
many parts of tropical America. It has been 
widely distributed in the Tropics of both hemi- 
spheres and is found on many of the tropical 
islands. In English-speaking colonies it is 
usually known as the silk-cotton tree. In Span- 
ish-speaking colonies it is more often known as 
ceiba, though the name ceiba is often applied to 
other species of the genus Ceiba, and often to 
some of the species of the genera Bombax and 
Chorisia. 

The kapok tree was introduced into Java at 
least half a century ago, and it is cultivated 
there over large plantations in the region of 
Samarang, and is also grown along the road- 
sides and borders of fields on many plantations 
throughout the central part of the island. 



A Vice-Chancellor ^ 

During the past ten years systematic efforts 
have been made to set out kapok trees in planta- 
tions, and especially along roadsides, in the 
Philippines, and more recently in Porto Rico. 
These newer plantings, however, have not yet 
reached a stage of commercial importance. 

Nearly all of the kapok of commerce hitherto 
has come from Java, and the greater portion of 
it has been handled in the markets of Rotter- 
dam and Amsterdam, Holland. 

Kapok has been used at least fifteen years as 
the principal material in stuffing life preservers 
and life belts on the Dutch steamships sailing 
to the Orient, and also on the North German 
Lloyd. I think that it was used on the English 
P. & O. Line, but I have never been on those 
ships and have no definite information on this 
point. It was used on the other ships not only 
for life belts and life preservers but also as a 
stuffing for mattresses and pillows. It is a very 
good salutary stuffing and serves the purpose 
quite well, except that it breaks to pieces more 
quickly than cotton, wool, feathers, or hair. 

Kapok has been very thoroughly tested for 
buoyancy by the Government of Holland. I 
think that Professor Van Iterson, of the Hoch 
Schule at Delft, either planned or was inter- 
ested in some of these tests. The results indi- 
cated that it was the most buoyant material 
available for various forms of life preservers. 
Its buoyancy depends on each individual fibre. 
These are unicellular hairs with relatively thin 



10 The Voyage of 

walls, practically impervious to moisture, and, 
except under very strong pressure, each indi- 
vidual cell remains very distended, like a min- 
iature cigar-shaped balloon. In a life preserver, 
therefore, they act like so many millions of little 
sacks of air. 

Kapok has been treated specially and spun 
experimentally at Chemnitz, Germany, but it 
can not be classed as a spinning fibre. It can 
not be spun alone without special treatment on 
any machinery now made. The fibres, which 
average scarcely more than 10 mm. in length, 
are not only too short for ordinary spinning 
material, but they lack "felting" properties 
necessary to make them cling together so as to 
form a yarn. This very lack of "felting" prop- 
erties, or the property of becoming matted, 
makes them especially valuable as stuffing 
fibres. In this respect a good stuffing fibre and 
a good spinning fibre have qualities diametri- 
cally opposed. 

After this, even when we had passed the 
danger-zone, we had always to carry these 
jackets with us and as they were white 
oblongs, with bold letters printed on them, 
when we passed one another in the inspis- 
sated gloom of the companion- or alley- 
ways, we looked like ghosts of newsvendors 



A yice-Chancellor ii 

from the happy days when newspaper pla- 
cards still existed. We clung to our jackets 
as old ladies cling to their white Shetland 
shawls, and, like the old ladies, we sometimes 
left them about. 

The same fibre is used in stuffiing comely 
waistcoats which are less conspicuous than 
the "Boddy Jacket," and there is also a 
waistcoat whose buoyancy depends on its 
being blown up. Opinion varied as to the 
relative values of these rival articles. Hav- 
ing both I wore both, but if I had to choose 
but one, I should choose the "Boddy," 
though the wearer should know that kapok 
is very inflammable. Before leaving, how- 
ever, I had consulted a friend of mine. Dr. 
P., who with his wife had just come back 
from the States. On the whole he spoke 
well of the blown-up waistcoat, at least as 
regards himself, but he added, "Mrs. P. was 
not so sure as she was constantly deflating." 

One elderly steward had been torpedoed 



12 The yoyage of 

seven times and after taking to the boats 
had been seven times rescued by the de- 
stroyers. We naturally sought the advice 
of so experienced an expert. "You don't 
'urry Sir, you don't 'urry, there's always 
plenty of time," was his sole and philosophic 
contribution to the gentle art of being tor- 
pedoed. Another somewhat younger steward 
handing round tea and catching the last 
glimpse of land, the north-west of Ireland, 
calmly remarked: "Well, this is about the 
place they generally gets me." He had been 
torpedoed three out of his last four trips. 

We must have crossed the bar about 
dinner-time, and these two words remind me 
that in spite of certain obvious discomforts, 
there were very substantial comforts on 
board. We had left, as we were told to do, 
our various ration-coupons on the dock at 
the port of embarkation, and crossing the 
gangway arrived in a ship flowing with milk 
and honey — a ship of sweetness and in parts 



A Vice-Chancellor 13 

of light. We were given white bread, lots 
of cream, real butter, Stilton cheese, sugar 
— even lump sugar — any amount of mar- 
malade or jam, quantities of fruit, not only 
apples — if Eva had lived in 1918 I don't 
believe she would have wangled Adam with 
an apple — ^but grapefruit, melons, oranges, 
pears, grapes, nuts, etc., etc. One couldn't 
help feeling with the fat boy in Pickwick, 
"How we shall enjoy ourselves at meals." 

We dropped down the river that evening 
in the foggy darkness and then! 

Monday, September 30th 

On coming on deck on Monday I 
came on to one of the most glorious and 
fascinating scenes I have ever seen. The 
sun was shining brilliantly, the dancing sea 
was a perfect blue with glistening white 
caps. To the left lay Rathlin Island and the 
shimmering coast of Antrim, to the right 



14 The Voyage of 

Jura and Islay, a fitting and satisfying 
setting for the centre of the stage which was 
occupied by our amazing convoy. We had 
been told we were the largest convoy that 
had left our shores, but then we had been 
told so many things! Anyway, here in the 
blue sunshine and on the dancing sea was 
a score of great ships, and such ships ! They 
were painted in every colour of the prism 
and in every variety of inconsecutive and 
inchoate pattern. Solomon in all his glory 
was not so variegated as any one of these 
amazing vessels, though doubtless his colour 
scheme was more coherent. 

To explain these bizarre and dazzling 
things it is necessary to make a brief excursus 
into that manner of art known as Cubism. 
I do not propose to say anything about the 
Cubfst's pictures, for I never could see any- 
thing in them, but what I conceive to have 
happened is this : the Cubists (or perhaps the 
most Cubic of them) said to themselves, 



A Vice-Chancellor 15 

"There are a very large number of average, 
ordinary, dull people in this world who see 
nothing in our pictures, therefore to those 
people there is nothing to see and therefore 
to them they are invisible." When the war 
broke out these Cubists, who are as patriotic 
as they are commercially capable, said, "If 
to the average, ordinary, dull person our 
pictures are invisible, could we not by paint- 
ing the British ships in our manner render 
them invisible, say, to the commander of a 
U-boat who in matters of art probably is 
an average, ordinary, dull individual"?" At 
any rate the Cubists seem to have got the 
contract. 

But however it came about we owe grati- 
tude to some one for providing us with so 
radiantly beautiful a sight. At first we 
seemed to be moving in regular formation, 
keeping our distance and our time, but soon 
we changed the formation. We, as it were, 
now set to partners, we advanced towards 



i6 The Voyage of 

our neighbours and then coyly (or shyly) 
retired ; at one time it seemed to me we were 
playing Roger de Coverley, "up the middle 
and down the sides/' zigzagging and pirouet- 
ting across the ocean. The whole thing was 
so exhilarating, so fantastic! Yet behind 
its grotesque and fascinating beauty — which 
put all the scenes of Chu Chin Chow or any 
Granville Barker scenery into the shade, for 
we were living, moving, vibrating — one felt 
such an amazing reality of Britain's power 
and might. A sea-plane flew over us, one of 
our own. I wish the Kaiser had been in it. 

All this time we were encompassed about 
and shepherded by numerous destroyers who 
tore up and down on every side spying out 
the seas. They were not camouflaged but 
grey-coloured and seemed so small that one 
felt that if they had come within reach one 
could have stretched a hand over the taffrail 
and picked them up. We were distressed 
that there was no way of thanking them for 



A Vice-Chancellor 17 

their services. No more monotonous, more 
dangerous, more uncomfortable life is there 
than that led by all ratings on these con- 
voying craft. What they do should be more 
fully and more publicly recognized. 

In reading an unknown poet, at any rate 
unknown to me, the other day, I came across 
a poem — No. 13 — whose hrst line so har- 
monised with my views about these wonder- 
ships that I venture to quote it: 

"GLORY BE TO GOD FOR DAPPLED 
THINGS." 

Eager to know more about one whose appre- 
ciations so happily coincided with my own 
views on * 'camouflage," I hastily turned to 
the note contributed by our Laureate: 

Poem 13. PIED BEAUTY. Curtal Sonnet: 
sprung paeonic rhythm. St. Beuno's Tremeir- 
chion. Summer "77" Autograph in A. — B 
agrees. 

"Faint but pursuing" for I felt I must know 
at least who and when my bard was, I 



i8 The Voyage of 

turned to the author's preface. He at least 
might know. Here I found that poem 
number 13 is a Curtal-Sonnet 

constructed in proportions resembling those of the 
sonnet proper, namely 6, 4 instead of 8, 6, with 
however a half line tailpiece (so that the equation 

1 12 , O 21 ,v 

IS rather r = — = lof). 

222 

I had hoped to find the personality of a poet, 
but I stumbled against what looked like an 
equation of an immature algebraist. 

Tuesday, October ist 

We closed the day in the centre of 
a marine fairy scene, we awoke next morn- 
ing and found we had been dreaming. A 
cold wet morning, a heavy sea, no trace of 
the convoy, all the ships scattered on their 
several occasions, the destroyers racing back 
to port only to turn round and start off again 
to escort another convoy out. 

Owing to my having forgotten to put back 



A Vice-Chancellor 19 

my watch over night 55 minutes, I got up 
one hour before I had meant to. This vexed 
me quite a bit; first, because I had to live 
over again an hour that I had thought satis- 
factorily disposed of, secondly, because 
breakfast was not ready, and then I reflected 
if this mischance had happened to me in my 
own University, where I really ought to have 
been, how easily could I have reached the 
Senate House by 9.30 a.m. without any un- 
due effort. About the time I should have been 
reading my annual address to the Members 
of the Senate we passed a large convoy going 
East. 

It grew duller and rougher and for the 
rest of to-day, as the poet has it, "a gentle 
pensiveness my soul possessed." 

Wednesday, October 2nd 

I think the Bishop — for we have a 
Bishop, and a Monsignore and a chaplain, 



20 The Voyage of 

and several padres, a poet, an oil-man, a 
play-writer, several members of the Cana- 
dian Siberian Commission, lots of flying men 
and five Japanese on board — in fact just the 
ordinary crowd of men (there are only men, 
why aren't there children?) whom one is used 
to meeting on liners. The Bishop was argu- 
ing yesterday that there could be no news if 
there was no one to read it — I think the 
Bishop must be an idealist. His talk re- 
minded me of Ronny Knox's poem: 

There was a young man who said, God! 
It surely to you must seem odd 

That a tree as a tree 

Simply ceases to be 
If there's no one about in the quad. 

Well, to-day we received Monday's 
French and American communiques and we 
read them, so there was news — and it was 
good. 

The Captain told us that our convoy had 
been attacked by U-boats but, as the modern 



A Vice-Chancellor 21 

phrase goes, there was "nothing doing." The 
news that we had been attacked so cheered 
our pessimist that he had an extra course at 
lunch. 



Thursday, October 3rd 

The worst of travelling in a boat 
primarily designed for freight, and which 
is carrying no freight — we had barely a 
hundred tons on board — is that the thing 
becomes light-headed. There was a heavy 
swell, and all Wednesday night and all 
to-day we have bobbed about in a most out- 
rageous manner. Still to-day the sun Is 
shining. I have a great sympathy with those 
folk who worship the sun. We sighted a 
ship and immediately turned and fled north. 
Evidently the neighbourhood of ships in 
these waters is unhealthy. 

About the fourth day, from the upper deck 
or the ship's bow, we begin to see floating 



22 The Voyage of 

patches of seaweed — gulfweed, or sargasso 
{Sargassu?n bacciferu7ii)^ as it is called. For 
the most part this appears as single stems or 
in small rounded heads, yellow-brown or 
olive-green, awash with the surface. But, as 
we proceed southward, larger masses appear. 
William Beebe gives the following ac- 
count of the gulfweed in The Atlantic 
Monthly (October, 1918, p. 477): 



An amazing amount of fiction and nonsense 
has been written about the sargasso-weed, but 
the truth is actually more unbelievable. Though 
we see it in such immense patches, and* although 
for days the ocean may be flecked with the scat- 
tered heads of the weed, yet it is no more at home 
in mid-ocean than the falling leaves in autumn 
may claim as their place of abode the breeze 
which whirls them about, or the moss upon which 
at last they come to rest. Along the coast of 
Central America the sargasso-weed grows, on 
coral and rock and shell, flowering and fruit- 
ing after its lowly fashion. The berry-like blad- 
ders with which the stems are strung are filled 
with gas, and enable the plants to maintain their 
position regardless of the state of the tide. Vast 



A Vice-Chancellor 23 

quantities are torn away by the waves and drift 
out to sea, and these stray masses are what we see 
on every trip south, which, caught in the great 
mid-ocean eddy, form the so-called Sargasso Sea. 
The weed along the coast is honest growth, 
with promise of permanence. The great floating 
Sargasso Sea is permanent only in appearance; 
and when finally the big masses drift, with all 
their lesser attendant freight, into the Gulf 
Stream, then life becomes a sham. There can 
be no more fruiting or sustained development of 
gas-filled berries. No eggs of fish or crabs will 
hatch, no new generation of sea-horses or mol- 
lusks appear among the stems. Bravely the 
fronds float along ; day by day the hundred little 
lives breathe and feed and cling to their drifting 
home. But soon the gas-berries decay, and the 
frond sinks lower and lower ; as the current flows 
northward, and the water becomes cooler, the 
crabs move less rapidly, the fish nibble less eag- 
erly at the bits of passing food. Soon a sea- 
horse lets go, and falls slowly downward, to be 
snapped up at once or to sink steadily into the 
eternal dusk and black night of deeper fathoms. 
Soon the plant follows and, like all its chilled 
pensioners dies. The supply from the Sargasso 
Sea seems unfailing, but one's sympathies are 
touched by these little assemblages, so teeming 
with the hope of life, all doomed by the current 
which is at once their support, their breath, and 
their kismet. 



24 The Voyage of 

Friday, October 4th 

Wet, warm, with a sticky moisture, 
and still very rough. I think this way we 
must have passed through a cyclone. About 
luncheon time the sea and the wind simply 
seemed to lose all control over themselves. 

They raged like the heathen, and we tossed 
and pitched more than ever. At dinner- 
time things began to improve and for some 
three hours it was merely rough, then the 
whole thing began over again and half the 
night or more was a pandemonium of noise 
and turmoil. 



Saturday, October 5th 

The sea is still very rough, but the 
air is dry and the sun shines. This is an 
immense improvement and the berths are 
beginning to give up their dead. They say 
we are south of the Newfoundland Banks. 



A Vice-Chancellor 25 

Sea-weed is again drifting about, probably 
on its long journey from the Sargasso Sea. 

In the afternoon we saw a balk of timber 
slithering up and down the climbing waves. 
It filled me with a sense of unutterable lone- 
liness. What was it doing in this limitless 
waste of waters? Whence had it come? 
Whither was it going? Why? What would 
be its future? Probably months of restless 
tossing accompanied by an ever-increasing 
water-loggedness until it slowly sinks to the 
abysmal bosom of the "benthos" to form a 
resting-place for deep-sea barnacles to nestle 
on and a shelter under which chaetopods 
can creep. 

Sunday, October 6th 

The weather is worthy of the day, 
warm, without winds, brilliant sunshine and 
a low, slow swell. We passed a Belgian 
relief ship so beautifully camouflage that it 



26 The Voyage of 

looked twice as far off as the Captain said 
it was. 

Morning service (Matins) was at 10.30, 
Acting on the dictum of the Bishop that the 
only pleasure in life that never palls is 
stopping away from Sunday morning church, 
I stopped away and went on with my writ- 
ing, but I was represented at the service by 
the Boy who also acted as organist and 
played "God Save the King" and three 
hymns. Cuthbert, who wasn't feeling quite 
up to it, also stayed away. He has not been 
down to a meal since we left the river of the 
port of embarkation ! 

In the afternoon the washing came back. 
The shortage of starch, which has so agitated 
the Episcopal Bench at home, is evidently 
not felt in this wonderful ship. 

Monday, October 7th 

All night it has been stiflingly hot and 



A Vice-Chancellor 27 

as we must not open a port-hole it has been 
rather oppressive. At six o'clock it suddenly 
began to blow, quite suddenly and with a 
noise like the opening of an exhaust pipe. 
The steward informs us that the sky is full 
of "mouse's tails," a cryptic but ominous 
utterance. 

The Captain — we don't see much of the 
Captain — told us that he had had to cut off 
ten feet of the distal end of his masts in 
order that his ship may pass under the Grand 
Trunk and Intercolonial Railway Bridge, 
which is at last in position above Quebec. 
I am not an expert on masts and they look 
to me very well as they are, but he evidently 
resents his loss and has a bit of a grudge 
against the Railway Companies. 

Every morning I read a daily portion of 
Professor G. E. Maclean's excellent "Studies 
in Higher Education in England and Scot- 
land." I was pleased this morning to come 
across the following lines: 



28 The Voyage of 

The duties of the Vice-Chancellor at Oxford 
and Cambridge are so numerous and complex 
that it is not unusual for his health to break 
down, though his term of office is only two or 
four years. 

There is probably during term time no more 
harder worked official in the United Kingdom. 

I wish I did not feel so well ! 



Tuesday, October 8th 

A very rough night, the screw con- 
stantly racing out of the water and jarring 
one out of one's sleep. To those who like 
myself sleep very slowly this was a bit of a 
nuisance, but joy came in the morning. At 
sunrise the turmoil abated and we had a 
day of brilliant sunshine, tempered by a cool, 
north-easterly breeze. 

This morning we got Cuthbert on deck 
and he sat in the Bishop's deck chair for 
some hours. I think the sun and the fresh 
air did him good. He is certainly eating 
better. 



A Vice-Chancellor 29 



Wednesday, October 9th 

Coming up towards Sandy Hook on a 
perfectly placid sea we were blessed with 
just that amount of haze which turned 
Coney Island into Venice, the sea into an 
Adriatic lagoon. We might have left Trieste 
overnight ! The same merciful mist changed 
the clear-cut outlines of the sky-scrapers into 
Turner's pictures, and the Boy and the Poet 
became ecstatic with the ecstasy of youth. 
On landing, the joy of Cuthbert and the Boy 
on being again on ''terra firma," for New 
York is built on bed rock — a very sustaining 
form of Gneiss, known as Manhattan Gneiss, 
capable of bearing great burdens or what 
would the skyscrapers do, poor things^- — 
was so great that they waltzed along the 
dock until they reached their respective in- 
itials and awaited with such patience as they 



30 Xhe Voyage of 

could command the official visits of the 
officers of the Customs. 

Everything was made easy for us and that 
evening we began the series of ceaseless kind- 
linesses and unbounded hospitalities which 
continued all our trip. 



A Vice-Chancellor 31 



Chapter II 
The States 



'If 'these' two creatures grew into one 
They would do more than the world has done." 
Browning, The Flight of the Duchess. 



Thursday, October loth 

LAST night it was broken to me, in 
the kindest possible way, in sympa- 
thetic terms which could not be more 
"tenderer," if we may quote Mr. Weller 
Senior, that I am to be painted for the Har- 
vard Club. This morning I gave the first 
sitting at a charming studio in Gramercy 
Park. I am not one who usually laughs 
much before noon, but the artist was so 
amusing and so bright that we hardly quit 



32 The Voyage of 

laughing from 9 to 1 1 a.m. The studio is 
decorated by a portrait on a large scale of the 
four Harvard Professors of Philosophy, 
Royce, Wm. James, Parker and Miinster- 
berg. The last-named is represented by an 
empty chair. It seems that his habitual in- 
solence and "overbearichkeit" was a bit more 
than the artistic temperament could stand. 
After a few sittings he was asked to leave the 
studio and to stay away. 

The following is queer but true. When 
it became clear that the United States were 
about to enter the war, Miinsterberg peti- 
tioned the authorities to intern him — one 
wishes one could spell it without the "n" — 
in the Cambridge gaol, as he thought that 
there his food supply, always an important 
item in a German's outlook, could be more 
generously supplemented than elsewhere. 

We dined at the Century Club with its 
members and made speeches. 



A Vice-Chancellor 33 
Friday, October nth 

Raising the liberty loan has clothed 
Fifth Avenue in a mass of bunting, each 
section being devoted to one of the Allies. 
The effect is very brilliant as the flags 
flutter in the sunny, clear breeze. 

Cuthbert is very much disappointed that 
he did not arrive in time to assist at the 
unveiling of the heroic bronze statue of 
Mr. Chauncey M. Depew, which the ex- 
Senator has presented to his native town. 
Mr. Depew delivered the unveiling and 
unfailing dedicatory oration. The advan- 
tage of these proceedings is obvious. There 
will be for instance no need now to get 
together a Chauncey M. Depew Memorial 
Committee. No one will have to equate in 
terms of cash the nicely balanced more or 
less of his esteem for the ex-Senator, with 
his duty to the Liberty Loan. That peren- 
nial source of difference, marble, bronze or 

3 



34 The Voyage of 

lead is eliminated. Bronze it is, and bronze 
is as durable as brass. Mr. Chauncey M. 
Depew pronounced the eulogy himself, and 
no one could have done it better. A man, 
even a politician, is very conscious of his own 
virtues, and no ex-Senator can be charged 
with that lack of appreciation of the subject 
of his memorial statue which is often met 
with in unveiling orations on post-mortem 
inaugurations. We shared Cuthbert's disap- 
pointment. 

Dined with the members of Harvard 
University at their splendid Club and made 
speeches. 

Saturday, October I2th 

To-day, being Liberty Day, Mr. 
Wilson put on a black coat and a top-hat 
and marched with an interminable pro- 
cession down Fifth Avenue. I saw it soon 
after il a.m. and again about 4 p.m. and 



A Vice-Chancellor 35 

for all I know it may still be marching. The 
whole thing was impressive, but the "mo- 
ment" was the passing of the President 
carrying a small flag. One could not help 
reflecting on the power of good it would do 
if the Pope would put on a black coat and 
a top-hat and walk down the Corso. Such 
things seem to bring folk together. 

Dined with the New York Schoolmasters 
at the Aldine Club, down-town, and made 
speeches. After dinner went to the Audi- 
torium, away up-town, and made more 
speeches. At 5.30 p.m. on this day there was 
not in this Continent a soul more keen about 
Liberty than I was, but by 10.30 p.m. I had 
weakened quite a bit. I had listened to 
eighteen speeches on the subject and deliv- 
ered two. I sympathized with Patrick Henry 
who exclaimed after marrying his second 
wife, "Give me Liberty or give me Death; I 
prefer Death." 



36 The Voyage of 

Sunday, October 13th 

Motored some forty miles up the 
Hudson, a brilliant day in all senses. Dined 
with the Rhodes Scholars at the Harvard 
Club and made speeches. 

Monday, October 14th 

As our newspapers say when the 
House of Commons has an all-night session, 
I am "still sitting" to my artist. I took 
Cuthbert to see her and the two got on very 
well together. We left in the afternoon for 
Washington and dined on the train. We 
made no speeches. 

Tuesday, October 15th 

During the afternoon, President 
Wilson received us and very cordially asked 
us to lunch on Thursday, October 17th. 
After leaving him we spent a couple of hours 



A Vice-Chancellor 37 

with Bishop Shahan at the Roman Catholic 
University where amongst many things we 
saw was a fully equipped and entirely mod- 
ern Chemical Laboratory, as large or almost 
as large as any in Great Britain. In this 
worked monks and priests of most of the 
religious orders. 

Wednesday, October i6th 

After a Conference on Education in 
the morning with the authorities of the 
War Department we embarked on the 
Admiralty yacht ^ybil and left for Mount 
Vernon. It was a perfect autumn afternoon 
and the brilliancy of the fading autumn 
leaves was reflected in the still waters of the 
Potomac. Their colours were so blended 
that we could only wonder at the beauty of 
the scene, but our hosts were by no means 
satisfied. They apologized for the absence 
of certain red tints, this they attributed to 



38 The Voyage of 

a cold spell in Seotember which had caused 
the fading foliage to skip one stage in its 
colour diminuendo. As has been pointed out, 
^'there's beauty in the colour of decay," but 
it was obvious that there is more beauty if 
the decay be gradual and not unduly has- 
tened by cold spells. 

As we came opposite to Washington's 
house, the flag was lowered, a bell tolled and 
the ship's bugler sounded the "Last Post." 
A naval officer on the Eyhil told me that this 
touching tribute to a great gentleman dated 
back to 1812 when the British Admiral of a 
fleet sent to fight Washington's countrymen, 
as his ships passed Mount Vernon on their 
way up the Potomac to shell the Federal 
Capital, gave the order to salute the grave of 
the first President with this usage, which has 
ever after been followed. Well, sailors al- 
ways were gentlemen.^ 

The charm of the house, of the garden, of 

* Germans alone excepted. 



A Vice-Chancellor 39 

the several views both inland and riverwards 
was multiplied by the beauty of the after- 
noon, and we left as sundown was setting in, 
with buzzards circling over us and a solitary 
blue heron standing on one leg on a grassy 
islet near the landing-stage. 

We dined that night with the Assistant 
High Commissioner of our country and the 
only speeches were two quite short ones to 
explain there were to be no speeches. 

Thursday, October 17th 

To-day we lunched with the Presi- 
dent and Mrs. Wilson. Both were extremely 
cordial and friendly and did us the quite 
unusual honour of granting us two hours of 
their much occupied time. Later some of 
us visited the Carnegie Institute and tried to 
grasp the almost incredible variety of its 
many activities and the quite incredible num- 
ber of dollars it administers. 



40 The Voyage of 

Later In the day the Trustees of the Car- 
negie Institute gave a banquet at the Wash- 
ington Hotel where we met a couple of 
hundred of the most distinguished men in 
Washington. Here the speeches reached a 
climax, for they began with the melons. I 
made an after-dinner speech before the soup 
was served, and had to leave out quite a lot 
of points. Whenever the band paused for a 
moment some one made a speech, and there 
were so many, and so many of us lacked 
what the Railway folk call "terminal facili- 
ties" that we had well-nigh three hours of 
speeches. But it was all so kindly and so 
friendly that it won our hearts. 



Friday, October i8th 

This morning we went to Baltimore, 
and here perhaps we came across more 
evidence of the terrible plague which this 
autumn is decimating the land than we had 



A Vice-Chancellor 41 

till now met with. Hitherto I have not men- 
tioned it, but even on the dock at New York, 
the Head of the British Mission in New 
York City had told us something of the ex- 
tent and virulence of the scourge, a very fatal 
form of influenza followed in many cases by 
a still more fatal form, of pneumonia. That 
very morning two of his clerks had died. On 
one day there were 750 deaths from this 
plague in New York City alone. The Sec- 
retary of State at Washington had given me 
an appalling list of the deaths amongst the 
families of the Diplomatic Corps in Wash- 
ington; no Embassy, no Ministry, had es- 
caped. 

One saw in Washington folks walking 
about the streets wearing white masks, some- 
thing like gas-masks. In the barbers' shops 
all the attendants wore masks, but the supply 
of them was totally inadequate. The medical 
and nursing profession, greatly depleted by 
the war, practically broke down. At Balti- 



42 The Voyage of 

more, although no one spoke much about it, 
we heard gruesome stories^of a little girl 
found shaking in a cupboard whither she had 
fled after the death of both parents and all 
her brothers and sisters; of the bodies of a 
man and his wife found alone in a house 
eight days after their death. It was as it 
were living through the pages of Daniel De- 
foe. The day before we reached Baltimore 
25O5 including some of the more brilliant of 
the young Johns Hopkins teachers, had died. 

At Philadelphia, with a population of some^ 
thing under two million, there had already 
been 250,000 cases. All theatres, churches, 
"movie"-shows, and saloons were closed. No 
assemblage of more than twenty-eight per- 
sons was permitted. The undertakers and the 
authorities at the cemeteries were unable to 
deal with the dreadful condition that pre- 
vailed. Thousands of bodies lay unburied, 
and owing to the national feeling about fun- 
erals the people would not adopt the natural 



A Vice-Chancellor 43 

and hygienic expedient of burying their dead 
in cloaks or in-sheets. An old friend of mine, 

Lady , told me at Washington that she 

had just buried her nephew at Philadelphia 
and had to pay £40 for a coffin which took 
three days to deliver. 

So great was the need of help at the 
necropolis at Philadelphia that the Admiral 
in command of the shipbuilding yards at 
Hog Island sent over two of his excavators 
to dig two great common graves. After 
some hours he was informed that there was 
no one to direct his men where to dig or to 
register the dead or indeed to do anything. 
Although he made no charges, yet he found 
some outside person was taking money. He 
telephoned to the Archbishop — in America 
you telephone to anyone — to say that unless 
someone in authority took charge within two 
hours he would recall his excavators, and 
somehow something was arranged. 

In the State of Connecticut the "jail- 



44 The Voyage of 

birds" were requisitioned and detailed to dig 
graves. The epidemic has been most fatal in 
the military and the naval camps. Already 
it has claimed a greater number of victims 
in the army and the navy than the total casu- 
alties in the war. 

In spite of the grief and sorrow which we 
could not but note in our hosts' faces, they 
received us with a brave front. Naturally, 
we felt keenly that at a time of such national 
woe we ought not to be intruding, but per- 
haps after all we could do "no other" and so 
they and we simply "carried on" and talked 
on other matters. 

At Baltimore we visited the new Univer- 
sity buildings of Johns Hopkins, new since I 
had been there, a fine set of libraries and lab- 
oratories built of a pleasant light red brick 
with ample windows. There had been the 
usual fight between the people who were to 
use the buildings and the architects. Here 



A Vice-Chancellor 45 

the Professors won, for in Johns Hopkins the 
university rooms and windows are large and 
let in floods of light. 

We lunched at the Country Club beside 
the Golf Course and made speeches. So 
many speeches did we make that it was 4 
P.M. before we rose to hurry off to an inter- 
view which Cardinal Gibbons had promised 
us. His Eminence was a refined and kindly- 
old gentleman, 84 years of age, yet with 
strength and courage and truth in his face, 
just the sort of saint to steady the nerves and 
bring hope to the heart of a sorely stricken 
and largely ignorant population. He told 
us that he was the youngest prelate at the 
Vatican Council in 1870, and that now he 
was the oldest Roman Catholic bishop alive. 
He also told us that the celebrations in 
honour of the Jubilee of his election to the 
Bench, which were just due, had been post- 
poned owing to the pestilence, and somehow 



46 The Voyage of 

he gave me the impression that he was not 
altogether sorry. 

The Boy visited the tomb of Edgar Allen 
Poe in the heart of the city, and thought it 
needed care. 

We were "off to Philadelphia" in the 
evening. 

Saturday, October 19th 

Motored to the studio, in the Univer- 
sity, of Tait Mackenzie, whose sculptures 
go from strength to strength. He is modelling 
a group of men going over the top, the finest 
war memorial I have yet seen. Later we vis- 
ited the University Art Museum, full of 
beautiful things, beautifully displayed. The 
Museum has a circular auditorium of novel 
and stately proportions and with perfect 
acoustic properties. We lunched at Houston 
Hall with the faculty and made innumerable 
speeches. One by the Provost, a very charm- 



A Vice-Chancellor 47 

ing Provost, contained some quite plain 
speaking about the way the old Universities 
in Great Britain had kept their doors shut to 
foreign students; this and further criticism 
after dinner, when we all spoke over again, 
has set us all thinking. I had hoped that in 
a Quaker City one would not speak unless the 
spirit moved one, but the "attendant spirit" 
in the form of the Provost was always with 
us and was always moving us. 

In the afternoon we motored to the 
Quaker College of Swarthmore, a co-educa- 
tional institution in which the education is 
by no means left out. As in other places, the 
buildings were set on a hill, in vast grounds, 
and equipped lavishly; for instance there is 
a large open-air theatre, a fine swimming 
bath and an observatory with a 24 in. lens 
telescope, a finer instrument than exists in 
Ireland, as our astronomical member told 
us, and many other features hard to find in a 
boys' or girls' College in our country. 



48 The Voyage of 

Sunday, October 20th 

Spent part of the morning at Tait 
Mackenzie's studio in his charming home. 
The Boy, who has for some days been 
suffering from suppressed music, obtained a 
certain temporary measure of relief at their 
grand piano. 

In the afternoon we visited some dear old 
colonial churches in which Washington wor- 
shipped and then, by way of contrast, went 
to a great magnate's palace and saw the finest 
private collection of pictures I have ever seen. 
Rembrandt's ''Mill," recently bought from 
Lord Lansdowne, hangs in the galleries. This 
is regarded by Bode, who has lately, we are 
told, been organizing the artistic looting of 
the invaded countries, as the most perfect 
picture in the world, but since he failed to 
distinguish a Lucas from a Leonardo, or to 
acknowledge his error when found out, his 



A Vice-Chancellor 49 

opinion on artistic matters leaves us un- 
moved. 

Some Italian pictures have, owing to a 
certain law, a little difficulty in leaving their 
country. One collector who had bought at 
a considerable cost a genuine Old Master in 
Rome got over this difficulty by having a 
sea-scape lightly painted over it. On reach- 
ing the West the collector sent it to his pic- 
ture-cleaner to have the sea-scape removed, 
and after some months he wrote to ask how 
this was getting on. The picture-cleaner re- 
plied: "We have removed the sea-scape and 
we have removed the Old Master and what 
do you wish done with 'The Coronation of 
William IV'?" 



Monday, October 21st 

This morning the Admiral in com- 
mand of the shipbuilding yard at Hog Is- 
land took us over it. Fifteen months ago 



50 The Voyage of 

students from the University were botaniz- 
ing on its swampy site. To-day there are 
some forty ships in all stages of construc- 
tion, seventy miles of railway track in the 
yards, 30,000 workmen, who with their fami- 
lies are housed in hundreds of dwellings 
which have sprung from the sea-foam in the 
course of a few months. There are numerous 
hotels and clubs for the unmarried hands. 

Here we met a camouflager, who allowed, 
as I had seen in New York, that much more 
blue is used on their ships than on ours. He 
also told us that the design was by no means 
haphazard, but carefully thought out and 
drawn on paper before being adopted. Each 
ship has a model and unless the camouflage 
succeeded in deceiving the enemy by a certain 
number of points in the compass — I suppose 
the Censor won't let me say how many — it 
was rejected altogether or revised. 

Later in the morning we motored to 
Bryn Mawr which was as charming as ever. 



A Vice-Chancellor 51 

Here we lunched and then went on to 
Haverford, an old home of mine, which 
like the Brown University at Providence, 
R.I., and doubtless others, has rejected the 
gilded unsectarianism of Mr. Carnegie. 

We dined at the Arts Club with the 
Director of the Drexel Institution, who had 
the happy idea of asking each of us to talk 
about ourselves. Never have I heard better 
speeches ! 

Tuesday, October 22nd 

We had a quiet day at Princeton, a 
really restful one. In the morning we visited 
some of the numerous departments turned 
into war work, especially those connected 
with aircraft, for Princeton has specialized 
in this branch. After an informal lunch with 
my host at my old Princeton home, we had 
two hours to ourselves, a great boon in these 
hurried days. Then we attended a Review, 



52 The Voyage of 

the President taking the salute, and after- 
wards a short formal meeting in Nassau 
Hall with the Faculty. This was a very dig- 
nified proceeding. The speeches were short 
and to the point. 

It was a memorable occasion. Fifty years 
ago, to the day, President McCosh, whose 
name you can still conjure with, took over the 
guidance of what was then a much smaller 
institution. Five years ago to the day I had 
the honour of taking part in the opening ex- 
ercises of Dean West's magnificent Gradu- 
ate College, now the home of the Paymasters 
of the Fleet. But these aniversaries are as 
nothing compared to the fact that over the 
Hall in which we met the British flag was 
floating where it had not floated for 177 
years ! 

Wednesday, October 23rd 

On passing through New York we 
were entertained at a most sumptuous 



A Vice-Chancellor 53 

banquet by the members of the Lotus 
Club. Here we met many of the out- 
standing men of the City, in all branches of 
literature, learning and commerce, and here 
we heard the last of the many Wilson notes. 
As so often happens, the evening report was 
an exaggeration of what the morrow was to 
bring forth. Much eloquence, for the 
speeches with one exception (and the speaker 
of this sat next me) were long and many, 
dealt at length on the term "unconditional" 
but that word was lacking in the full report 
of the President's Note in the newspapers 
next morning. 

The third of the classical injunctions to 
the after-dinner speaker, "Get up, get on, 
and get down," is neglected in this country. 
Never have I heard so many brilliant per- 
orations passed by — especially by one of our 
Mission — and the first always seemed to me 
the best. Nevertheless it was a most suc- 
cessful gathering and we left a little before 



54 The Voyage of 

midnight much heartened by innumerable 
expressions of good-will and much touched 
by innumerable acts of kindness. 

Thursday, October 24th 

Our visit to Yale was another restful 
one. In the two laboratories I visited, the 
pathological and the biological, I was im- 
pressed both by the thoroughness and by the 
originality of the researches being carried on. 
Here, as at other American universities, there 
is ample room and a most cordial welcome 
awaiting the British graduate who wishes to 
study on lines hitherto hardly touched on in 
our Islands. 

Friday, October 25th 

The President of Yale had in the 
most kindly fashion arranged a short confer- 
ence between the Faculty and the members 
of the Commission; this my colleagues tell 



A Vice-Chancellor 55 

me was one of the most helpful meetings 
which had as yet taken place; unfortunately 
before it was more than half-way through I 
more or less collapsed. The incessant strain 
of meeting hundreds of hospitable hosts each 
day, the constant speeches and the eternal 
lack of sleep had proved too much for more 
than one of us. I retired to the handsome li- 
brary of the comfortable club which put 
us up, a library where that blessed word 
"SILENCE" is not only enjoined but exer- 
cised, and fell asleep in an armchair. On 
waking I decided, to my great regret, to omit 
Amherst, Smith and other Colleges, and go 
straight to Boston. Here I took refuge with 
an old Cambridge friend in the quietest of 
hotels inhabited by great numbers of dear 
old mid- Victorian ladies whose age justifies 
the proud boast of the proprietor that no one 
ever dies in his hotel. On arrival I went to 
bed. 



56 The Voyage of 

Saturday, October 26th 

Slept. 
Sunday, October 27th 

Slept most of the morning and in the 
afternoon went out to the hospitable house 
of the President of Harvard. On the way 
our most kindly guide and his wife drove us 
out to Concord through autumn-tinted roads 
and country lanes. We saw the homes of 
Hawthorne and Emerson. It was interesting 
to learn that the son of the latter, Dr. Ed- 
ward Emerson, was still living in his father's 
village, just as it is to know that Longfel- 
low's daughter is still living in her father's 
stately house in Cambridge just around the 
comer from President Lowell's house. We 
saw the virile statue by a Concord sculptor 
of the young farmer who fired the first shot 
in the War of Rebellion standing at the foot 
of the bridge inscribed with these lines : 



A Vice-Chancellor 57 

By the rude bridge that arched the flood, 
Their flag to April's breeze unfurled, 
Here once the embattled farmers stood 
And fired the shot heard round the world. 

April 19th, 1775. 

We also saw on what was once the battle- 
field of Concord a touching tribute to our 
soldiers : 

They came three thousand miles and died, 
To keep the past upon its throne. 
Unheard beyond the ocean tide 
Their English Mother made her moan. 

April 19th, 1775. 

On the way home we stopped at the old 
cemetery at Sleepy Hollow where in ideal 
setting Emerson and Hawthorne and Tho- 
reau lie. The sun was setting, a light au- 
tumn mist veiled all sharp outlines; it was 
four-thirty on a Sunday afternoon, a time 
when one's vitality is at its lowest, a time 
when at home I always read Thomson's "City 
of Dreadful Night." I felt at peace with the 
world and in complete harmony with tombs. 



58 The Voyage of 

Monday, October 28th 

Early in the morning we visited 
Tufts College, pleasantly set on a hill. At 
11 A.M. I lectured to some 700 Harvard 
students in khaki and naval kit on some of 
the inconveniences they may meet at the 
front. Nobody coughed ! 

The great crowds of splendid youths we 
meet everywhere seem almost overwhelming, 
full of fun, working hard and deadly in ear- 
nest. At least half of them everywhere are 
in sailor's uniform and are apparently in 
training for commissions, though how such 
thousands are to find ships is difficult to 
imagine. Of course, many of them are spe- 
cializing in such subjects as sea-planes, wire- 
less, etc. 

Tuesday, October 29th 

This morning we visited Boston Col- 
lege, a Jesuit College, which grants degrees. 



A Vice-Chancellor 59 

As usual the buildings are placed on a hill 
commanding beautiful views of river, lake, 
mountain and city, the outline of the last- 
named tempered by distance. All this we 
saw from a roof -garden. On descending in 
the elevator I noticed with envy that it was 
fitted with a mechanism, which, if Mr. Edi- 
son could but fit it on all politicians, orators 
and after-dinner speakers, would save an im- 
mense amount of time and enable us to get 
on with the war. The mechanism enables 
the lift to record : "This elevator automati- 
cally closes itself within 30 seconds." 

The chapel, and indeed all the buildings, 
were stately, well proportioned and satisfy- 
ing to the eye. The inside decorations were 
exceptionally beautiful and some of the more 
artistic and restful were the work of one 
of the Fathers, An elderly priest seemed to 
take an especial and solicitous interest in me, 
and after a time he confided in me that 
though he had met many Oxford men I was 



6o The Voyage of 

the first Cambridge man he had ever seen. 
He watched over me as if I was an unique 
specimen and before we left gave me to un- 
derstand that this singular experience had 
greatly widened his outlook on life. 

On the way home I was pleased to find 
that the President was using and had used 
for years the "Cambridge Pocket Diary." As 
the originator, and for some years the author, 
of that modest tome I felt a certain degree of 
pride. 

We lunched with the President of "Tech" 
and his wife in the magnificent new build- 
ings which have been put up on the Cam- 
bridge side of the Charles River since I was 
last in Boston. 

During the afternoon we met the Harvard 
Faculty in their Hall and had many helpful 
talks. 

After dinner we went into Boston to a 
reception at the new home of the American 
Academy of Arts and Sciences. Here again 



A Vice-Chancellor 6i 

I met many old friends. One, a world-wide 
authority on Brachiopods and Japanese art, 
who had been very good to me over thirty 
years ago when first I came to Boston, had 
travelled sixty miles to see me again. The 
crowd, however, was so great and the noise 
we made was so loud we could converse but 
little. One felt in sympathy with the old 
lady who said, ''How can one converse if 
people will talk?" However, I was lucky 
enough to meet several zoologists and we got 
away into a quiet comer and talked shop. 

Wednesday, October 30th 

Yesterday it was 80 degrees in the 
shade and at 8 a.m. this morning it was 
already 70 degrees. The heat is indeed 
overwhelming. We are assured it is un- 
usual, but except in the Tropics the weather 
seems to me to be always and everywhere 
unusual. 



62 The Voyage of 

The wife of our host took us to see 
"The House of the Seven Gables" at Salem. 
This is a delightful place and is maintained 
with the same pious and thoughtful care as 
is Mount Vernon. The whole arrangement 
recalled the merchants' houses at King's 
Lynn, for behind the house is a garden run- 
ning down to the water's edge where the 
schooners used to anchor, and in the garden 
is a counting-house. 

The headlines of the newspapers are as 
large as ever but not so quaintly phrased. 
However, I have just come across an old 
copy of a Southern journal which records the 
capture of Nazareth in the following words : 

"British capture Christ's Home Town." 

Another one which heralded an interview 
with one of our Mission was: 

"DISHPAN loses lure for female sex in Eng- 
land, says prominent British Woman Educator." 



A Vice-Chancellor 63 

We left in the evening for Montreal, 
travelling luxuriously in a private car which 
had been kindly placed at our service by the 
Dominion Government. 



Thursday, October 31st 

All Hallowe'en. 
At Montreal we were received by the 
President and Faculty of McGill University 
in their spacious Library. Here we were 
shown their admirable system of card-cata- 
loguing, and the rapidity with which a book 
asked for can be placed in the asker's hands. 
One feature that struck us greatly was their 
circulating library. Hundreds of books are 
sent to country villages in batches of a dozen 
or so, and are sent back after a certain fixed 
period. It recalled the same sort of distribu- 
tion that exists in our Local Lectures organi- 
zations in England, but it is carried out on 
a greater scale. Canada does everything she 



64 The Voyage of 

can to help the farmers and their women- 
folk in far away districts, and the Post-Office 
carries for them, free of charge, any weekly 
newspaper they care to order. 

McGill University, though sadly depleted 
by the absence of a very large percentage of 
its members at the war, was still keeping the 
flag of learning flying. We lunched with the 
President of the University and his wife, and 
met many of the leading Professors. Noth- 
ing could have been kinder than our recep- 
tion. It is thirty-two years ago since I first 
visited this great Canadian University, and 
the changes and improvements that have 
been effected in that time are truly remark- 
able. 

Later in the day we visited the Town 
Fine Art Museums and some private collec- 
tions. A former pupil of mine is doing a 
great work in Montreal in getting together 
and admirably setting out great and varied 
collections of artistic objects. Like so many 



A Vice-Chancellor 65 

students of the biological sciences he has a 
real feeling for colour, form and design. 

We dined with the Governors of McGill 
University at the University Club. We 
made speeches and enjoyed short talks with 
many old friends. 

Friday, November ist 

All Saints' Day. 
In the morning some of us visited the 
MacDonald College of Agriculture near St. 
Anne's, a very efficient and as usual most 
beautifully equipped institution. In the aft- 
ernoon we went to three of the buildings 
amongst the dozen which, scattered about in 
the City and French quarter of the City, con- 
stitute the Montreal and Roman Catholic 
University of Laval. A second half of this 
great institution is in Quebec and just at 
present there is a movement on foot to sep- 
arate one from the other. We saw the 



66 The Voyage of 

Schools of Commerce, of Veterinary Science, 
and of Dentistry. The students of the last 
two Schools have proved invaluable in 
France, and have taken a very full and most 
helpful share at the Front. 

At Laval the lectures are in French and 
it is primarily, though not exclusively, the 
University of the French Canadian. McGill 
students attend some of the Laval Courses, 
especially Law Courses. 

In the evening the Boy and I dined with 
one or two of the big men in Montreal and 
listened to some very lively comments as to 
the men in the Dominions the British Gov- 
ernment "delighted to honour." I tried to 
assure them that the Dominion did not suffer 
alone. 



Saturday, November 2nd 

We left early for Ottawa, arriving at 
that "proud city of the Waters" soon after 



A Vice-Chancellor 67 

noon. The Governor-General gave us lunch 
at the new and magnificent Chateau Laurier 
Hotel and here we met the Premier, upon 
whom I had conferred the honorary degree 
of LL.D. less than five months ago. Laurier 
and many of the present Cabinet Ministers 
were there but there were few speeches. 

I spent some time at the headquarters of 
the Entomological Branch of the Depart- 
ment of Agriculture. With its twelve acces- 
sory laboratories scattered throughout Can- 
ada it is doing great work second to none in 
or out of Canada. We had tea with the 
Duke and Duchess at Rideau Hall, dinner 
at the Golf Club where Bishop, the Canadian 
''ace," was also dining, a truly marvellous 
airman who has brought down fifty Huns. 

Sunday, November 3rd 

Reached Toronto quite early in the 
morning after a somewhat chequered night. 



68 The Voyage of 

I spent most of the day with the mothers 
and friends of some of the Canadian officers 
who had stayed during the last four years at 
my Lodge. 

We had tea at the house of one of the 
leading financial authorities of the country 
who is however more proud of the beauty 
of his Bank's banknotes than of his out- 
standing business ability. He thinks they 
will live and certainly they ought to. To 
most people the beauty of a banknote is in 
direct proportion to the dominant cypher 
and they seldom look beyond this, yet they 
should dwell on the charm of the portrait 
of Martha Washington on some of the U.S. 
issues. 



Monday, November 4th 

This was really a great day for us. 
We saw something of the magnificent build- 
ings of the unversity with their complete 



A Vice-Chancellor 69 

equipment in every department. We had a 
helpful talk with the Faculty and learned 
much about the largest and wealthiest of the 
great Canadian Universities. Toronto is co- 
educational. They have the most absolute 
and the fullest equality of the sexes and the 
women have the front seats in the lecture 
rooms. 

As I have written we really had a great 
day: most of us managed to get in four 
speeches. 

(i) In the morning we addressed the 
Faculty on the objects and aims of the 
Mission; here as indeed everywhere we were 
welcomed and made to feel welcome. 

(ii) A little after noon we lunched with 
several hundred of the leading business 
men at the Empire Club, and here an un- 
fortunate thing happened. In my speech I 
described how one of the less informed of our 
Labour Members had reproached the older 
Universities for neglecting to teach what he 



70 The Voyage of 

called "the newer subjects," such as Textile- 
Fabrics, Brewing and Dyeing. In replying 
to him I had pointed out that these subjects 
were by no means new, that textile-fabrics 
had begun to come into use in the Garden of 
Eden, that the processes of fermentation 
were understood by Noah, and that dyeing 
was one of the most ancient of arts. In re- 
porting this part of my speech the news- 
papers made me say that "dying was one of 
the oldest of human industries." I was sorry 
for this, as though the undertakers seemed 
pleased I fear the local clergy thought me 
flippant. 

(iii) Immediately after lunch we were 
received by the Mayor and made speeches 
to the Corporation. The Mayor was kind- 
ness itself, and showered us with gifts, 
culminating in lovely silken Canadian flags. 

(iv) We dined at a charming club as the 
guests of the University. I sat between the 
Governor and the Premier of the Province, 



A Vice-Chancellor 71 

and here we were delighted by meeting 
again the unveiler of the recently erected 
statue to Lincoln at Springfield, 111. We all 
made speeches. 

The food conditions in Canada are to a 
visitor from the other side of the Atlantic 
overwhelming. They are the same in the 
United States. The people of North Amer- 
ica have made great and, for the most part, 
voluntary sacrifices to solve the food problem 
in Europe, and they have solved it. Much 
more would they send could they get it 
across. Still much remains behind. 

At the numerous hospitable dinners and 
banquets we had eaten the fare was both 
ample and excellent, but the excess of a 
City Dinner was mercifully and properly ab- 
sent. At the hotels things were on a differ- 
ent basis. At Toronto we were housed in a 
thoroughly comfortable house, not one of 
those gilded palaces one finds in New York, 
but one which provided everything we could 



72 The Voyage of 

want, and here is a list of the things we could 
eat : 

Blue Point Oysters, Malapeque Oysters 45,^ Cock- 
tail 50; Cotuit Oysters 50, Bread and Butter 
10. 

Crabflakes Cocktail 60, Shrimps Cocktail 60, Lob- 
ster Cocktail 75, Oyster Stew 30, with cream 
40. 

HoRS D'CEuvre: Romanoff Caviar on Ice 1.25, 
Grape Fruit 30, Celery 35, Salted Almonds 
30, Chow Chow 30, Bengal Chutney 30, Dill 
Pickles 20, French Sardines in oil 50, Olives 
30, Stuffed Celery 50, Chili Sauce 10, Chutney 
15, Grape Fruit Supreme 60, Anchovies in 
Oil 60. 

Soup: Consomme Japonais 30, Creme of Chicken 
3^, Potage Milanais 30, Hot or cold Con- 
somme, clear 30, garnished 35, Chicken Broth 
clear 30, with chicken and rice 35, Celery 
Broth 30, Clam Broth 30, Mock Turtle 35, 
Puree of Split Pea 30, Mongole Soup 30, 
Onion Soup au Gratin 35, Onion Soup in 
cream 33. 

All strained soups in cups. 

Fish : Boiled Fresh Codfish, egg sauce 70, Lob- 
ster and Finnan Haddie Newbourg 90, Boiled 
Jumbo Whitefish hoteliere 70, Fried Green 
Smelts with bacon, tartare 70, (15 Minutes), 

* The figures indicate cents. 



A. Vice-Chancellor 73 

Planked Whitefish with cucumbers 75, Cold 
Lobster mayonnaise 80-1.50. 

Specials: Lamb Chops saute champvallon 85, 
Breaded milk-fed Chicken Maryland 1.25, 
Braised Premium Ham mashed Sweet Pota- 
toes 90, Boiled Lamb Steak Foyot 1.15, Calf 
head en Tortue 80, Cold Sliced Capon and 
Tongue Asparagus Tips i.oo, Omelette Celes- 
tine 65. 

Roasts : Roast Lamb Mint Sauce 85, Roast Tur- 
key Cranberry Sauce 1.10, Roast Ribs of Beef 
au Jus 75. 

Vegetables : Cauliflower Mousseline 35, Potato 
Marquis 30, New Bermuda Potato in cream 
30, Boiled 15, Baked Potato 25, Mashed Pota- 
toes 20, Creamed Potatoes 30, Beets in butter 
30, Succotash 30, Stewed Tomatoes 35, French 
fried 25, California asparagus 35. 

Cold Cuts: Roast Lamb 80, Chicken (Half) 
1.00, Sliced Capon argentine 90, Lamb tongue 
60, Beef tongue 70, Sliced Turkey 90. 

Salads: Shrimp 80, Tomatoes 35, Lobster i.oo, 
Fruit 60, Chicken 60, Hearts of Lettuce 35, 
Lettuce and Tomato 40, Cucumber 35, Water- 
cress 30, Russian dressing 15, Mayonnaise 
dressing 15, Roquefort dressing 30. 

Ice Cream and Ices: Strawberry Ice Cream 30, 
Orange Water Ice 25, Neapolitaine 35, Choco- 
lat Parfait 35, Coffee Ice Cream 30, Vanilla 
30, Chocolate 30, Cafe Parfait 35, Lemon 
Water Ice 35. 



74 The Voyage of 

Fruits and Preserves: Honey Dew Melon 35, 
Grape Fruit 30, Banana 15, Assorted Fruits 
50, Red Currant Jelly 35, Bar-le-Duc 40, Can- 
ton Ginger 30, Orange 30. 

Cheese: Richelieu 20, McLaren's imperial 20, 
Neufchatel 20, Canadian 20, Camembert 30, 
Roquefort 40, Swiss 30, Ingersoll cream 20. 

Coffee: Coffee with cream, small pot for one 20, 
large pot 40, Demi-Tasse 10, with cream 15, 
Ice Coffee 20, Cocoa, Chocolate 25, Ice Tea 
with cream 20, Horlick's Malted Milk 20, 
Milk per bottle 10. 

Dishes not on menu will be served by request. 

"All persons in ordering food ought to consider the 
needs of Great Britain and the Allies for 
wheat, beef, bacon and food, and that the 
Canada Food Board desires the public to do 
everything in their power to make these com- 
modities available for export by eating as lit- 
tle as possible of them, and my making use of 
substitutes and avoiding waste." 



Tuesday, November 5th 

We went to bed this morning before 
1 A.M. and got up at 6.30 to start for 
Niagara. We had, as ever, perfect weather 



A Vice-Chancellor 75 

and many picturesque views of streams, 
lakes, and woods. Hitherto I have always 
visited Niagara from the American side and 
this is, I think, the better way. Coming first 
to the Canadian side the views are less im- 
pressive. 

The falls are much as they were and do 
not seem to have changed in the last two- 
and-thirty years. The Victoria Park on the 
Canadian side, the park on the American 
side and on Goat Island and the new hotels 
have, however, vastly improved the amenity 
of the "section." On the other hand, the 
factories, power houses, etc., which desecrate 
the cliffs between the Falls and the Rapids, 
grow in number and in horror. 

We left in the late afternoon for Windsor 
and here we had to leave our Canadian pri- 
vate car. Those of us, however, who had 
comfortable beds could not tear ourselves 
from the Canadian soil and remained in the 
car. The rest of us continued in the train 



76 The Voyage of 

which embarked on a ferry, the ferry 
crossed the Detroit River and at 2 a.m. we 
were at rest in one of the most comfortable 
of the many comfortable hotels we lodged 
at during our tour. 



Wednesday, November 6th 

Some of our party got up early and 
visited Mr. Ford's works. I did not. After 
all, they did not see the works, but heard 
quite a lot about them from one of the chief 
managers. The works are on a large scale 
and the workmen receive a minimum of £i 
a day. In addition to this their morals are 
carefully scrutinized. A woman cannot give 
her husband a black eye without Mr. Ford 
being 'phoned up, and he at once adjusts the 
domestic difference. The number of work- 
men is about 50,000 and the daily pay-bill 
amounts to at least £50,000. 

Mr. Ford is now out to win the war and 



A Vice-Chancellor 77 

has quite voluntarily and unostentatiously 
cut down his own income to what must be 
an almost starvation rate for a multi-mil- 
lionaire; I forget to how many hundred thou- 
sand pounds he reduced his annual income. 

Mid-day we left for Ann Arbor and here 
we spent a delightful four-and-twenty hours. 
One of the most inspiring sights we had seen 
was the march past of some two or three 
thousand students in khaki and in sailors' kit. 
They were simply splendid as they moved to 
the tune of the Michigan march familiar to 
our ears through Sousa's Band. Ann Arbor 
is the oldest and most renowned of the 
State Universities in the Middle West, and 
it was with peculiar pleasure and pride that 
we received at the hands of the genial and 
friendly President the distinction of Honor- 
ary Degrees. The ceremony was simple and 
very dignified. We were each presented in 
short, but graceful, speeches by the Profes- 



78 The Voyage of 

sor of Philosophy spoken in English. Latin 
would have saved many of our blushes. 

I was interested to learn that the Univer- 
sity employs five "whole-time" doctors to 
look after the health of the students. For 
the payment of $5 a year each student re- 
ceives free medical attendance, free medicine 
and free treatment at one of the University 
hospitals. Ann Arbor has a very large medi- 
cal school. 



Thursday, November 7th 

We are living altogether too fast and 
I doubt whether we can stand the strain, so 
many things happen and all at once. The 
barber told me this morning that Ohio had 
gone wet or dry, I forget which, but as we 
go all round, but not into, Ohio it does not 
much matter. These constant and sudden 
changes in the humidity of large tracts of 
land must of course affect the conditions of 



A Vice-Chancellor 79 

a large section of the population, but in what 
way is a matter of dispute. Russia went dry 
about three years ago, but the Muscovite mil- 
lennium still tarries. 

Then they say Mr. Ford is not elected 
Senator; yet he had a lot in his favour — 
unlimited and moral workmen, innumerable 
motor-cars, and he is, they tell me, a republi- 
can on a democratic ticket; "carrying water 
on both shoulders," as they say here. In our 
country such arguments would have proved 
irresistible. 

A son has been bom to the chauffeur of 
our host. He is radiant and quite unrespon- 
sive to talks of armistice. To him, if he 
clearly understands what it is, an armistice 
seems a long way off and very intangible, 
whilst he can see and hear, and if his wife 
will let him, touch his little babe. 

Then as a climax, "Peace" was declared 
at about 1.30 p.m. Ann Arbor is a small 
place and took the news calmly. The corner 



8o The Voyage of 

boy, almost an extinct mammal, continued to 
decorate his comer undismayed. But it was 
otherwise on the train. Passengers from 
Detroit told us that all work had ceased, all 
the factories had emptied, all the whistles 
and hooters were whistling and hooting, and 
all the flags were flying. The news seemed 
so overwhelming that it interfered with rea- 
son. Of course, Peace couldn't and didn't 
come like this, but the only one on the train 
who showed a reasonable appreciation of 
events was the elderly conductor who said to 
me in an inimitable drawl : "Yes, sir, we're 
celebrating the news of Peace on every sec- 
tion of this line, hut it ain't confirmed^ 

At Kalamazoo we were joined by three 
beautifully dressed ladies. On hearing the 
news they had hurried into their most 
splendid creations and their most ravishing 
toques and were on their way to join in the 
peace celebration in Chicago, which they 
opined would be on a great scale. When 



A Vice-Chancellor 8 1 

some kindly Professors boarded the train and 
told us that the news was, to say the least, 
premature, we gently broke it to the ladies. 
They showed no disappointment and little 
surprise, indeed they laughed merrily. So 
great is the moral effect of really beautiful 
clothes and so sustaining is the consciousness 
of being the best dressed women in the 
crowd ! It affords a striking example of the 
triumph of matter over mind. 

The kindness of our hosts — and to us the 
whole nation seem to be our hosts — is inex- 
haustible. Everywhere we go we are expect- 
ed and helped through. The very custom 
houses open their doors for us and the Reve- 
nue officers won't even glance at our luggage. 
The railway authorities had sent to our train 
to help us on our way to Chicago a very able 
and really interesting young official who was 
courtesy itself. He told us that but a few 
years ago he had been in an orchestra where 
he played the drum. I am unfortunately 



82 The Voyage of 

immune to music, but it sticks in my mind 
that Dan Godfrey once told me that he who 
plays the drum must have a great sense for, 
and appreciation of, "time." This quality 
may account for the rapid career of our 
friend in the Railway World. I hope he 
will in time rise to be President of the Line. 
I am sure he would be a good one. 

We arrived in Chicago in a deluge of 
rain and saw what remained of the celebra- 
tion. We were soon housed in the luxurious 
and comfortable University Club and "so 
to bed." 



Friday, November 8th 

We spent to-day at the University of 
Chicago. This is one of the youngest, one 
of the most original of the United States 
Universities. Youth accounts for much of 
this originality. President Harper — he was 
President of Chicago when first I visited it 



A Vice-Chancellor 83 

— accounted for more. Youth is also respon- 
sible for the fact that though at other centres 
there may be single edifices more stately and , 
more beautiful than any at Chicago, it is, as 
regards its buildings, one of the most com- 
plete and most uniform of all American Uni- 
versities. Like the Unities of the Drama, as 
expounded by Mr. Curdle to Nicholas Nick- 
leby, it combines "a completeness — a kind 
of universal dovetailedness with regard to 
place and time — a sort of general oneness, if 
I may be allowed to use so strong an expres- 
sion." 

The President of the University is away 
in Persia and it is interesting to note that en 
route he went chasing all the way from Lon- 
don up the Scapa Flow to ask the Admiral of 
the Grand Fleet and his wife, nee Marshall 
Field's daughter, to sign a legal document 
empowering the University to purchase a 
small alley-way which somehow stood in the 
way of the extension of the already ample 



84 The Voyage of 

University campus. In his absence we were 
hospitably entertained by his wife and the 
acting President. 

We had a helpful conference during the 
afternoon with the Faculty in the Ida Noyes 
Building, the home of the lady students, but 
it is not fair to expect a lot of newcomers to 
confer in a room decorated, as this was, with 
the most charming of modern frescoes. We 
couldn't help looking at all the graceful and 
gorgeous young creatures depicted in them 
and we were, I fear, more interested in them 
than in the exchange of Professors and Stu- 
dents. Why can't we exchange frescoes'? 
Later we dined in the Hall of the same in- 
stitution and all made speeches. 

Saturday, November 9th 

To-day we journeyed through the 
corn-fields and over the coal-iields to 
Champagne-Urbana to visit the great Illi- 



A Vice-Chancellor 85 

nois State University — one of the biggest 
and most rapidly growing of these institu- 
tions under State control. Stretching through 
some forty-six of the forty-eight States, 
with an aggregate of 1 75,000 students, these 
State-aided Institutions are a power in the 
land. Their trustees are nominated by the 
Governor or the Mayor or are elected at 
the same time and by the same electoral 
body as the State legislature, and so little do 
they fear the interference of the politician 
that the President of one of the best-known 
of them said to us "they would feel kind 
of lonesome without it." After visiting the 
well-known horticultural branch of the Uni- 
versity we were welcomed by addresses and 
other recitations, and tried to make suitable 
replies to some two or three thousand stu- 
dents and professors from a background of 
four fair ladies representing respectively the 
United States, Illinois, Great Britain and 



86 The Voyage of 

Canada. In the evening we returned to 
Chicago. 

WTiilst we were away the Boy had been 
to a football match between Michigan and 
Chicago — Michigan won — and came back 
full of College yells. 



Sunday, November loth 

We went a long drive along the 
North Shore and then visited the Academy 
of Fine Art. Amongst many priceless pos- 
sessions is a whole room filled with Monets ! 



Monday, November nth 

*Teace hath murdered Sleep." 
Hardly had we dozed off than we were 
awakened at 2 a.m. by a most infernal din. 
"Peace," as they will call an armistice, 
seemed to have been declared again. We 
were naturally sceptical, but being sceptical 



A Vice-Chancellor 87 

in bed whilst a million and a half were cred- 
ulous outside doesn't bring sleep. 

The noise was overwhelming. All that 
night and all next day and most of the next 
night the hooters hooted, the whistles whis- 
tled, the syrens syrened, brass utensils 
brayed, tin-trumpets trumpeted, the people 
yelled, the motors rushed about with tin-can 
accompaniments, boys banged bones, grown- 
up men frantically beat iron telegraph posts 
with crow-bars ; every conceivable instrument 
was beaten, brayed or blown, but the hooters 
were the worst. They seemed to have an un- 
canny quality about them and as they 
.moaned and boomed and shrieked they 
seemed to come into your room and you felt 
as though you could touch them. The pa- 
rading people were excited, but good-natured 
and friendly. An elderly divine who took 
part in these nocturnal celebrations told us 
next morning that quite respectable ladies 
had put feathers down his neck; he added 



88 The Voyage of 

that after a time "one got quite used to it." 
In the morning this noise increased. 
Thousands of lorries and motors pervaded 
the city packed with children and women, 
the latter by now beginning to look like Sis- 
ters of Mercy after a bump-supper. A pecu- 
liar manifestation of the enthusiasm of the 
people was the casting forth from every win- 
dow innumerable scraps of paper — I believe 
the Telephone Directories suffered most — 
which blackened the skies and whitened the 
ground. It cost the City of New York 
$85,000 to clear up their paper litter after 
their dress-rehearsal last Thursday ! 

To-day we visited the North Western 
University. Like many others, it has certain 
of its Departments in the City, such as the 
Medical, the Commercial, the Dental, and 
the Legal. We had time only to visit the 
last two and found them well equipped and 
well staffed. There is even in the last- 
named a replica of a Law Court, and here 



A Vice-Chancellor 89 

the students try cases. I don't know whether 
I am more afraid of dentists or of lawyers; 
I suppose one is a physical and the other a 
moral fear, but I was glad to find myself on 
the way to Evanston, some twelve miles 
north of Chicago, where the main buildings 
of the North Western State University are 
situate. Our progress was impeded by pa- 
rades; all the schools, all the organized So- 
cieties paraded and all made as much noise 
as they could. Finally, however, we arrived 
at the Campus, beautifully placed on the 
shores of the lake. We found here the same 
freshness of view, and belief in the future, 
the same numerous staff and adequate equip- 
ment that we had found elsewhere ; but there 
seems always some novel and original feature 
in each new institution we visit, and at the 
North Western University we found a large 
building entirely devoted to Oratory. Any 
future Mission to this country, before em- 
barking on its career of speeches, might well 



90 The Voyage of 

take a short course of Orator)^ at Evanston. 
After a comforting lunch at the charming 
University Club, which was somewhat pro- 
longed by all of us making speeches, we re- 
turned to Chicago. 

We dined this evening with the Associa- 
tion of the Presidents of State Universities. 
I was so tired that, like the late Lord Hart- 
ington, I nearly fell asleep during my own 
speech and I could not help dozing off again 
and again during those of my colleagues. 
Each time I lost consciousness I had a strange 
nightmare and it recurred again and again. 
I dreamed that I had heard it all before. 

Tuesday, November 12th 

It is difficult to recount the proceed- 
ings of last night, so I take refuge in an ex- 
cerpt from the sober columns of the Tribune: 

Delirium and license disputed the rule of 
Chicago's streets last night. The mad revel of 
the day approached an orgy last night. 



A Vice-Chancellor 91 

The wild celebration that had raged since the 
darkness of the early morning hours of Monday 
ended in hysteria in the early morning hours of 
Tuesday. Before midnight good natured rowdy- 
ism had become general.^ 

The members of the University Club 
where we were lodged, whose hospitality is 
boundless, gave us a sumptuous lunch in their 
great dining-room which is a replica of Cros- 
by Hall seen under a magnifying lens. The 
speeches were few, but good. 

In the afternoon we attended a meeting 
of the Presidents of State Universities and 
amongst other good things heard a masterly 
and witty address from the President of 
Berkeley University. 



Wednesday, November 13th 

We left before eight in the morning 
for Madison which is the capital of Wiscon- 
sin and the seat of one of the best-known and 

^Chicago Daily Tribune, 12. xi. 18. 



92 The Voyage of 

most celebrated of the State Universities of 
the Middle West. The University is set on a 
hill and a mile to the north on another hill 
the world-famed Capitol is set. The latter is 
built of a white granite, resembling marble. 
"The white Vermont (?) marble used at 
Washington and elsewhere is a granite of 
medium grain ; the constitutents of which are 
normal in so far that they are quartz, mica 
and feldspar. Generally, one or more of 
these constituents (most often the mica) are 
coloured — in this case all are colourless: the 
mica being quite colourless — probably mus- 
covite." The building is cruciform and 
crowned by a dome as noble as that of St. 
Paul's would be if the latter were cleaned; it 
is also a trifle higher. 

Many of the professors hold executive 
positions under the Government and this 
happy combination of knowledge with state- 
craft seems to promote the welfare both of 
the commonwealth and of the University. 



A Vice-Chancellor 93 

The weather was perfect, the sun blazing 
hot and the air as crisp as Switzerland's. We 
went an enchanting drive along the shores of 
the two lakes, Mendota and Monona, which 
flank the two hills; their waters are as blue 
as those of the Grotto at Capri. We then 
attended a conference, important and heart- 
ening, but it hindered me from seeing all but 
the tail of a most brilliant sunset. The Boy 
saw it all and I was jealous. 

We had a banquet with speeches in the 
evening in the spacious dining-room of the 
Madison Club where we are being housed. 
It is a delightful home and never have any 
of us revelled so much in perfect quiet and 
perfect views. 



Thursday, November 14th 

The Boy and I visited a few of the 
many Departments of the University, the 
Zoological, Botanical and Geological Labora- 



94 The Voyage of 

tories, and those of the Institutes of Plant 
Physiology and Plant Pathology. At Madi- 
son I saw the results of certain experiments 
which seemed to prove the inheritance of 
acquired characters, so often doubted. The 
experiments are not completed and, of 
course, there may be some flaw in the de- 
ductions, but to me they seemed conclusive, 
at any rate for the four generations which 
up till now form the basis of the experiment. 
After a delightful lunch at the Club we vis- 
ited some of the many Departments of the 
College of Agriculture. After dining with 
the President of the University, we left for 
Minneapolis. 

They do not pay in this country — or in 
any other — their Professors or their Univer- 
sity Presidents enough. Perhaps it is be- 
cause there are so many of them. At Uni- 
versities not perceptibly larger than Cam- 
bridge the teaching staff is bigger than our 
whole Electoral Roll. The stipends of the 



A Vice-Chancellor 95 

teachers are as low as, in some cases even 
lower than, in Great Britain, and yet in nor- 
mal times the expense of living is higher. 
Well it is the old, old story: "The cheapest 
thing going to-day," says the Satirist, ''is 
education." '1 pay my cook," said Crates, 
"four pounds a year; but a philosopher can 
be hired for about sixpence and a tutor for 
three half-pence." "So to-day," writes Eras- 
mus, "a man stands aghast at the thought of 
paying for his boy's education a sum which 
would buy a foal or hire a farm-servant." 
"Frugality I it is another name for madness!" 

Friday, November 15th 

At 10.30 A.M. we were received at 
the Minnesota State University, Minneapo- 
lis, at a Convocation held in the Armoury, 
no other building being large enough to seat 
the thousands who had come to welcome us. 
There were addresses, and three of us made 



96 The Voyage of 

speeches which were listened to with the ut- 
most patience and sympathy, but the ''note" 
of the ceremony was the music supplied by 
the Minneapolis Symphony Orchestra. This 
was really magnificent. 

The Boy and I stayed with the President 
of the University and his family, who, like 
all our hosts, were most kind in seeing that 
we had some sorely needed rest. In the late 
afternoon we had a very "nourishing" dis- 
cussion with the Faculty and the executive 
officers and made a few short speeches after 
dining with them in the Ladies' Building. 

Saturday, November i6th 

I visited the Zoological Department 
and found amongst its many admirable 
features an aquarium half as large as that of 
the Marine Biological Association at Plym- 
outh, a "beavery" where young beavers 



A Vice-Chancellor 97 

were building dams, and a Cinematograph 
Theatre fully equipped. The teachers make 
their own "movie" films. After a most pleas- 
ant luncheon with many of the Professors, 
the Boy went to a Wisconsin v. Minnesota 
football match. I did not, my attitude to- 
wards athletics being that of the Rhodes 
scholar whose certificate from his home Uni- 
versity testified that "whilst he excelled in 
none he was sympathetic towards all." 

In the evening a reception took place in 
our honour at the University President's 
House. We were introduced to, and shook 
hands with, some twelve hundred guests. 
This took some hours and the net result was 
that whilst our reason reeled, we seemed to 
have given pleasure to a great crowd of kind- 
ly folk; at any rate they were polite enough 
to say so. 



98 The Voyage of 

Sunday, November 17th 

In the morning I visited a famous 
private Art Collection with some wonderful 
Chinese curios and some fine pictures rather 
weakened by a number of quite mediocre 
paintings. 

This city, though slightly south of Ottawa 
and Montreal and very slightly east of Des 
Moines, — it is on the 45° parallel, — is the 
most northerly and, until we reach Houston, 
Texas, the most westerly point of our jour- 
ney. We now turn south and "nightly pitch 
our moving tent a day's march nearer home." 

This afternoon I came across a couple of 
letters written by two Rulers on the same 
subject, but in different tones: 

A New York Times correspondent sends from 
Paris the text of a letter written by the Kaiser to 
a German woman who has lost nine sons in the 
war. It is interesting, because of its contrast to the 
letter of President Lincoln to Mrs. Bixby during 
the American Civil War. The two letters follow: 



A Vice-Chancellor 



99 



THE KAISER'S LETTER 

Mis Majesty the Kaiser 
hears that you have sacri- 
ficed nine sons in defence 
of the Fatherland in the 
present war. His Majesty 
is immensely gratified at 
the fact, and in recognition 
is pleased to send you his 
photograph, with frame 
and autograph signature. 



LINCOLN'S LETTER 

Dear Madam: I have 
been shown in the files of 
the War Department a 
statement of the Adjutant 
General of Massachusetts 
that you are the mother of 
five sons who have died 
gloriously on the field of 
battle. I feel how weak 
and fruitless must be any 
words of mine which should 
attempt to beguile you from 
the grief of a loss so over- 
whelming. But I cannot 
refrain from tendering to 
you the consolation that 
may be found in the thanks 
of the Republic they died 
to save. I pray that our 
Heavenly Father may as- 
suage the anguish of your 
bereavement and leave you 
only the cherished memory 
of the loved and lost, and 
the solemn pride that must 
be yours to have laid so 
costly a sacrifice upon the 
altar of freedom»- 



In the evening we boarded the train for 
Des Moines, Iowa. The first two or three 
hours were somewhat disturbed by the train 
developing a sort of rhythmic, mechanical 
hiccough on a large scale, but in time it found 
relief and we sleep. 



100 The Voyage of 

Monday, November i8th 

We were rather apprehensive about 
visiting Iowa, as some lowans we had 
met in Minneapolis were so devoted to lib- 
erty that they seemed anxious to add to their 
own stock by taking it away from everyone 
else. However, Iowa turned out to be all 
right. 

The object of our going to Des Moines 
was to visit the State College of Agriculture 
and Mechanic Arts at Ames, some thirty- 
five miles north of the Capital City. Here 
we split up into parties and I found it im- 
possible to visit more than the Veterinary 
School and the Entomological Department. 
In the latter I went through part of a well- 
known Collection of Mites and here I met 
with the first instance I had ever come 
across of a pathogenic organism conveyed to 
a plant (the beetroot) by the bite of an in- 
sect (a Leaf-hopper, Eutettix tenella Baker). 



A Vice-Chancellor loi 

This "is the first plant disease definitely de- 
termined to be entirely dependent upon a 
specific insect for transmission." Like the 
Yellow-fever pathogenic organism, and ap- 
parently that which causes the modern influ- 
enza and many other of our troubles, that of 
the "Curly-leaf-disease" of Beets is ultra- 
microscopic. The insect only conveys the 
disease if it has fed upon a diseased beet, but 
a single bite of an infected leaf-hopper will 
infect the whole plant, and the disease only 
occurs in the beet when bitten by this one 
species of insect, and it takes two weeks after 
the puncture to develop. Further, the insect 
is not capable of conveying the disease at 
once, it must have an incubation period with- 
in the body of the insect of at least twenty- 
four hours, often forty-eight. Thus this dis- 
ease runs a course very similar to that of 
insect-borne protozoal diseases in animals. 
A somewhat similar history is now being 
worked out in a potato disease. These re- 



102 The Voyage of 

searches at Ames Agricultural College, Iowa, 
open up an entirely new field in plant pa- 
thology and will in all probability prove of 
the greatest economic value to the agricul- 
turist. 

The members of the Des Moines Club put 
us up during our stay in the Capital City and 
in the evening gave us one of the best din- 
ners we had received in this land of dinners. 
We left them feeling as the tablets say in 
our re-decorated churches, "enlarged, re- 
stored and beautified," and making our way 
to the train, left for St. Louis. 

Tuesday, November 19th 

The Chancellor and the authorities of 
the University, dedicated to the memory of 
that great Englishman, George Washington, 
at St. Louis, were most considerate and, 
though placing themselves wholly at our dis- 
posal, left much of the time to ourselves. 



A Vice-Chancellor 103 

Washington University is finely situate on 
rising ground with spacious views, some five 
miles from the city. It is approached through 
a fine park, the site of the World's Fair in 
1904. The entrance is both beautiful and 
imposing, a broad series of low steps leading 
up to the central gateway. All the buildings 
were planned by one architect, all are built of 
the same red granite — a local stone — and in 
the same style, so that here, even as much as 
at Chicago, the Campus has a unified charm 
rare in Western Universities. The Faculty 
gave us a sumptuous dinner, and although we 
said we would not make speeches, but would 
only just say "a word or two," at the end the 
Chancellor said he trembled to think what 
would have happened if we had made 
speeches. 

Wednesday, November 20th 

We spent the morning at the Medical 
School and Hospital. These two institu- 



104 The Voyage of 

tions are practically one, and only some four 
years old. Everything is of the best and 
only to be equalled by such modern temples 
of healing as that of the University of Cin- 
cinnati, where, curiously enough, the Mayor 
of the town appoints the members of the 
Board of Regents. Such a complete hospital 
with a medical school at its disposal, or such 
a complete medical school with a hospital at 
its disposal — one does not quite know which 
way to put it — is unknown with us. Every 
patient can be analysed, measured, rayed, 
tested, in fact inspected with all the latest 
appliances of science, and the medical stu- 
dent is trained in all these processes; but 
when he becomes the practising doctor in 
some small town or remote village, what can 
he do in this way even though (and this is 
never the case) his patient could afford such 
refined treatment? Well, he must just do 
the best he can and must not envy the more 
fortunate folk at St. Louis. 



A Vice-Chancellor 105 

We are beginning to come across the prob- 
lem of the coloured people. At Chicago 
black and white lie in the same wards, but 
at St. Louis these patients do not mingle be- 
yond the out-patient department, and far- 
ther south they do not mingle at all. 

The black troops have fought gallantly. 
The Germans have complained about our 
lighting with coloured troops, but they have 
done far worse, they have been fighting 
with German troops. The other day a darkie 
soldier tried to break out of a camp in the 
South to see his folk, and after a lengthy 
dispute with the sentry, who told him he 
would be shot if he persisted, he replied, 
"Boss, t'ain' no sort o' use you stan'in' dere, 
'cause I gwine out. I got a maw in Hebben 
an' I got a pa in Hell an' a sister in Mem- 
phis, an' I gwine see one of 'em dis night." 

Later in the day we visited the Missouri 
Botanical Garden, presented and endowed 
by an Englishman, Mr. Henry Shaw, who 



io6 The Voyage of 

had made a large fortune in hardware. The 
gardens cover an area of 125 acres, and 
there are grown some 11,000 species of 
plants. The hot-houses are very fine, espe- 
cially those devoted to heaths, orchids, 
cycads, palms and pineapples and the flora of 
the desert. One house was full of a Chrys- 
anthemum show, the most interesting plant 
in which was the ur-chrysanthemum (C. 
indicum Linn. — ^partim — or C. mori folium 
Ram.), from which all modem forms are 
derived. It has an exceedingly beautiful 
though small blossom, and one could not but 
regret that the horticulturists had not left the 
lovely blossom alone, instead of breeding it 
into many-coloured monsters, which so singu- 
larly mimic their own paper imitations. 

In the evening we left for Lexington, 
Kentucky. 



A Vice-Chancellor 107 
Thursday, November 21st 

Everywhere had we been received 
well and more than well, but at Lexington 
there was a warm-heartedness about our 
hosts which made us feel at once inhabitants 
of "My old Kentucky home." We motored 
out some twenty miles to the Shaker 
Village, where we fed on the dishes of the 
South, and very good dishes too, in a stately 
house with well-proportioned rooms, with a 
fine hall and ample staircase, and the date 
1817 over the lintel of the front door. On 
the road we passed, what we had not passed 
before, the homes of country gentlemen who 
live in them, and do not merely sleep a 
"week-end" in them. Here they breed race- 
horses and race them, and raise tobacco and 
smoke it; in fact, Lexington is both a social 
and a trading centre. This possibly accounts 
for the excellence of the first-rate hotel where 
we were housed. 



io8 The Voyage of 

On returning we saw something of the 
University buildings, and inspected the Stu- 
dents' Army Training Corps, now all eager 
to get out of khaki. At dinner we were 
cheered by nigger minstrelsy and by a mini- 
mum of speeches. Afterwards we had a dis- 
cussion with some of the Governors and 
members of the Faculty. The value of these 
discussions is always inversely proportional 
to the size of the meeting. At Lexington the 
meeting was small. 

Friday, November 22nd 

After a hurried visit to the University 
Farm, where we were introduced to a hen 
of unparalleled fecundity, and to the Schools 
of Agriculture and Engineering, we left in 
the morning for New Orleans, sorry to say 
good-bye to Kentucky. 

"The way of the transgressor is hard," 
said the coal-merchant to me as we sat in the 



A Vice-Chancellor 109 

minute smoking compartment of the observa- 
tion car. "Last night," he continued, "I dis- 
sipated some, and all this morning I've been 
feeling mighty sick. Them folks that wrote 
the old Bible were smart, Sir, they knew all 
about human frailties, same as you and me." 

I don't believe that I should have known 
that he was a coal-merchant but that he in- 
formed me that most folk liked to talk about 
what they traded in, and he talked about 
coal. He took a profound interest in a pile 
of coal at one of the depots we halted at. 
To me it seemed much the same as any other 
coal-dump, and it only appealed to me as a 
rather lavish display of what in my country 
is a really rare mineral. The sight of a fun- 
nel or chute for conveying the coal into the 
trucks excited his enthusiasm. I suppose 
there was some money-saving contrivance 
in it which attracted him, but I confess, 
whatever it was, it left me cold. 

All the day and all the night we traversed 



no The Voyage of 

Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi, 
until on — 



Saturday, November 23rd 

we pulled about noon into the depot 
at New Orleans. Most of the morning we 
had been crossing great arms of the sea, old 
mouths of the Mississippi, but now known 
as Lake Pontchartrain, or skirting inland 
waterways, bayous. One wished we could 
see a crocodile. 

After all, there are only two species of 
crocodile in North America, and one of these 
is an alligator. We couldn't possibly see the 
true crocodile (Crocodilus americanus Lau- 
renti) as, though it extends from central 
Mexico to Equador and the West Indian 
Islands, in the States it lives only in the 
waterways and the salt water marshes of the 
southern tip of Florida. It is an agile, 
vicious beast but no man-eater. More slen- 



A yice-Chancellor iii 

der than the alligator and with a pointed 
snout, it is much more active and swift in its 
movements. Its colour changes as it ages, 
but there is always more olive-green and gray 
in its pigmentation than in that of the alliga- 
tor. It was discovered only in 1875. "Oh! 
What a • crocodilian year was that!" as 
Francis Quarles exclaims in his "Emblems." 
Quarks was a member of my College, 
Christ's ! 

The last-named (^Alligator mississippiensis 
[Daudin]) has more yellow and black 
patches and a broader head and snout. It 
is usually said that its growth is slow, but 
Ditmars' observations show that the growth 
in length and in weight is comparatively 
rapid. This alligator extends from North 
Carolina to Florida and as far west as the 
Rio Grande in Texas, frequenting the low 
swamps and rivers of the coast. Un- 
fortunately it is becoming extinct and the 
discovery that its skin can be tanned and 



112 The Voyage of 

made into leather for bags and purses is 
hastening its disappearance. Two and a 
half million were destroyed in the years 1880- 
1894, chiefly for their skins. In the South 
their eggs are also eaten, for, unfortunately 
for the race, alligators lay very palatable 
eggs and their nests are conspicuous and eas- 
ily rifled. 

Alone amongst reptiles the alligator roars. 
Other reptiles hiss but the 'gator, as the 
coloured folk call him, emits a bellow which 
in the still night of the South carries a mile 
or more. The voice of the young is as the 
*'mooing" of a cow, but a big male, ten feet 
or more in length, roars with a thunderous 
and tremulous blast. He, at the same time, 
emits from under his chin "fine steaming jets 
of a powerful nasty smelling fluid" which 
"float off into the heavy miasmatic atmo- 
sphere of the bayou." The odour may be 
carried for miles and to the negroes it always 
signifies "a big oV 'gator." 



A Vice-Chancellor 113 

On arriving at the Depot at New Orleans 
we left immediately for Tulane University 
and en route some of us must have fallen in 
with a reporter. Hitherto I have shown a 
certain reticence about the members of our 
Commission, but now all is discovered! 

The New Orleans Item has given us away, 
given us away rather too generously. I 
quote from its classic columns: 

BRITISH [DUCATORS VISIT NEWCOMB 
WITH DINWIDDIE 



"TUBBING" IS PART Of BRITISHERS' PRELIMINARIES TOR 
TOUR Of CITY 



The British University Mission — which was 
heralded as the British Education Mission, an er- 
ror, as the members have to do only with college 
and university work — arrived in New Orleans, 
Saturday shortly after noon, and after a short stay 
at the Griinewald for the "tubbing," which consti- 
tutes as much of British formality as any of their 
other national customs, were driven to Tulane Uni- 
versity by Capt. Edith Haspel and Corporal Flower 



114 Th^ Voyage of 

of the Emergency Motor Corps of the American 
Red Cross. 

"Oh, I say," said Sir H J , seeing the 

Red Cross insignia on the cap of Captain Haspel, 
"You're not going to take us to a hospital? 
Whatr' 

But it was to Newcomb that the party of British 
educators went after a short stay at the hotel. Dr. 
Dinwiddle of Tulane and Dr. Pierce Butler of 
Newcomb met the party at the station and accom- 
panied the five members of the mission to a lunch- 
eon that had been arranged, prepared and served 
by members of the domestic science class of New- 
comb College. 

"Chilly, Eh Wot?" 

As the automobile sped up St. Charles avenue. 

Reverend E W , Fellow and Tutor of 

Queen's College, Oxford, Member of the Heb- 
domadal History (sic), leaned close to Dr. J 

J , Professor of Geology and Mineralogy, 

Trinity College, Dublin, and said : 

"It's beastly chilly. Eh Doctor?" 

"Quite so, my dear Doctor, I had expected a 
much milder climate, something like Capri, what?" 

"Righto !" 

Dr. Dinwiddle explained that this was severe 
weather for the early winter, but the disappoint- 
ment was evident in Dr. W 's face. It is the 

winter, but the disappointment of the doctor's first 
trip to America, and his impressions are varied. 



A Vice-Chancellor 115 

"I rather expected to see life of a more tropical 
nature," he said, "are there no fruits at this time of 
year, no bananas ? I had expected to see monkeys, 
and other tropical animals here — I am quite dis- 
appointed, you know!" 

Nenv Orleans Item. 
25. xi. 18. 

"SOLDIER LOSES BUTTON" 

Sir A S ^ has with him a Secretary, a 

young English soldier, blue-eyed, blond^ and big. 
Shivers of excitement were noticed among the girls 
of Newcomb when he appeared among the older 

members of the Mission. But Lieut. N was 

worried. "I'm in a deuce of a predicament," he 
said, "I've lost a button from my uniform and it 
makes me feel so undressed, you know " 

"Suppose," said Dr. Dinwiddie, "that we have 
one of the young ladies sew it on for you." 

"I should be most pleased," said Lieut. N , 

and presently he was led away in quest of a 
needle, thread and a girP attached. 

"Isn't it odd?" said Dr. S when Lieut. 

N returned beaming with the glint of an in- 
ternational romance in his blue eye, "I, too, have 
lost a button !" 

*The kindly Southerner often grants honours which 
are quite unmerited. 

^ He has black hair and dark eyes but something must 
be sacrificed to alliteration. 

®A friendly negress of mature charms. 



ii6 The Voyage of 

We lunched as usual in the Ladies' 
College, called after Miss H. S. Newcomb. 
We saw something of the several depart- 
ments, and in that of Household Economy 
I had just time to copy from the black- 
board some recipes for salads, oyster-cock- 
tails, and other comforts before being hurried 
along to chemistry. Whilst eating the ad- 
mirable "gumbo," a sort of bouilleabaisse 
but less fishy, prepared by the students, I 
congratulated myself that I had done so. 
We made a few speeches, and were especially 
interested in one by the Dean of Newcomb 
Hall, and one by the Professor of Engineer- 
ing who was trained at Annapolis, and told 
us of the part our Admiralty had played in 
training the men who built up the American 
Navy. 

The Art School at Newcomb College is 
outstanding. The Director is a gifted artist. 
As in many other American Universities, 
ceramics take a leading part in the art 



A y ice-Chancellor 117 

students' course, but embroidery, church vest- 
ments, metal work, and jewellery are also 
studied, besides painting and modelling. A 
student with a taste for any of the so-called 
"Arts and Crafts" can pay her way through 
College after her sophomore year and has 
no difficulty in making a living after grad- 
uating. Indeed, the Dean of Newcomb 
College told us he could "place'' double the 
number of graduates were the College twice 
as big. 

We are on the 30 parallel, well south of 
the Canary Islands and of Cairo, yet it is 
cold, bleak and, worst of all, wet. In spite 
of this, I was able to see enough of the city 
to prove in my eyes it is the most beautiful 
of the many cities I have visited in the 
United States during the last thirty-two 
years. The wonderful avenues with grass 
down the middle, and palms down the sides, 
the luxurious gardens which form a setting 
for the houses of the well-to-do, all open 



Ii8 The Voyage of 

to the public gaze, make a whole which, 
to one with a soul inclining as Lowell says 
"to the southern slope," is irresistible. 

We dined with the President of Tulane 
and heard some charming negro melodies, 
mostly of the revivalist sort. Just now 
"negro-spirituals" are the fashion, especially 
in the North. 

Some of the experiences of the darkie at 
the Front are striking. A bunch of corre- 
spondents there came across a big black 
Corporal suffering from the effects of high 
explosives and asked what they could do to 
help. "Well, suh, boss, I don' jess rightly 
know whut ail me. Well, suh, yeh know, 
dee sawnt us up yonder a little piece. We 
wus dere fur two days wid dem big shells 
jess bustin' up de town: and dee had tole 
us to git under kiver when er shell come. 
Well, suh, boss, I wus out dere, an' de 
shells commence ter come an' I went fer to 
git under kiver. Mos' all de houses wus 



A Vice-Chancellor 119 

gone, blowed plumb down; but I seen one 
dese here places whut de calls a Tavern — 
you know, boss, dat means er saloon. Dey 
wa'n't no folks in hit, but I jess made up 
my min' I wus gwine git in dat house. An' 
I reach out my han' fer de door knob. An' 
jess when I gits ready to open de do' — Blim 
— Blim — Blooy — ^liere come er shell an' jess 
tuck dat saloon out uv my han'." 

During the evening we had an informal 
talk at the Round Table Club and here we 
met many interesting and leading citizens of 
New Orleans. The President of Tulane is 
a man of few words, but has a remarkable 
power of hitting a nail on the head. He 
certainly made us think as he pointed out 
certain snags in our way. 

Sunday, November 24th 

To-day was glorious, bright sunshine 
and clear air. The Boy and I visited the 



120 The Voyage of 

French quarter and found it picturesque but 
decayed. It simply exuded romance and 
obviously we must all read George Cable's 
stories all over again. We attended a 
service at the Cathedral and then sat in the 
sun and were daguerreotyped, and had a 
group of piccaninnies similarly treated. I 
had thought this was a dead art, but it isn't 
and it was delightful tc see the old daguer- 
reotypist fishing our pictures on little metal 
plates by means of a magnet out of a pail 
with some solution in it. The little darkies 
guessed we were French and then Italian, 
and their powers of speculation being by now 
exhausted, we told them that we were 
English. Immediately they took the Boy to 
be the Prince of Wales and guessed he was 
mighty glad to be out of that battle and 
assured us that they would have felt the same 
in similar circumstances. We also visited 
the fruit market, a riot of colour. 

In the afternoon we attended a conference 



A y ice-Chancellor 121 

in the Gold Room of our Hotel, the most 
charming feature of which was the beautiful 
singing of our lady hostesses. 

In the evening we left in a private car 
for Houston, Texas. 

Monday, November 25th 

My ''Cambridge Pocket Diary" re- 
cords that to-day the "Inns of Court Michael- 
mas (Dining) Term ends." Such a statement 
makes one feel homesick. It is so essentially 
English. Surely in no other country in the 
world could such an event happen. Princi- 
palities and powers are tottering, crowns 
are crashing and the "Inns of Court Michael- 
mas (Dining) Term ends" on the normal 
date. 

The weather adds to our nostalgia for it 
is foggy, wet and cold, not at all the weather 
for the Hispano-moresque buildings of the 
Rice Institution (by Cram) which demand a 
blazing sun and blue sky. 



122 [The Voyage of 

They are indeed wonderful buildings and 
recalled Browning's lines: 

A sort of temple — perhaps a college, 

— Like nothing I ever saw before 

At home in England, to my knowledge. 

Christmas Eve and Easter Day, 

After a formal reception in the Faculty 
Chamber we lunched with the Mayor and 
Municipality at the huge Rice Hotel, which 
would be conspicuous even in New York. 
Houston is a comparatively new city but its 
enterprise is boundless. In the afternoon I 
gave a lecture to a crowded audience on 
''The Depths of the Sea." The hearers were 
very patient and very appreciative. 

We are staying in a most charming house, 
one of the most comfortable I have ever been 
in, and one feels absolutely at home but with 
superadded comforts. The flowers alone 
are a joy after days of flawless hotels and 
trains. In the evening there was a reception 
and here we met the Governor of the State 



A Vice-Chancellor 123 

and many others with whom we had all too 
little time to talk. 

Tuesday, November 26th 

Conferences and lectures took up 
much of the day but their rigour was 
mitigated by a luncheon give us by the 
Chamber of Commerce. I always like talking 
to business men; somehow they seem more 
easily pleased than their academic brothers. 
The food controller of Texas gave a stimu- 
lating address on the success of the efforts 
made in this respect in the State, and some 
striking statistics of the food shortage which 
still obtains throughout the Old World. 
A well-attended smoking concert at the 
roomy University Club, with more short 
addresses, closed a somewhat strenuous day. 

Wednesday, November 27th 

All the morning we held a series of 
discussions and conferences on a "League 



124 The yoyage of 

of Nations," a "Federation of Churches," 
a "League of Learning." No one will 
clearly define what the suggested "League 
of Nations" is to be, and no one will tell 
us if the Central Powers of Europe are to 
be leaguers or not. After all, no one knows 
whether there will be many nations in 
what was Russia or many in what was 
Germany, so the discussion is a little pre- 
mature. Still, a good many find the phrase, 
as the old lady found the word Mesopo- 
tamia, helpful and soothing. 

We lunched at the invitation of the City 
Board . of Education at the South End 
Junior High School. The Republic of 
Texas (1836-48) split off from the mother 
country Mexico for many reasons; one, and 
this is surely unique amongst rebelling 
States, was that the Central Government 
did not supply the people with sufficient 
public schools. This deficiency is now made 
good, but generous as the tax-payer is to 



A Vice-Chancellor 125 

education, it is difficult to keep pace with 
the growth of the people and the deep-rooted 
determination to educate their children. The 
school where we found ourselves was a fine 
building standing in spacious grounds. In- 
side were wide corridors, ample staircases, 
well-proportioned class-rooms, a magnificent 
gymnasium and swimming bath. The care 
of the body is only second, perhaps not 
always second, to the care of the mind in 
American schools and colleges. 

Thursday, November 28th 

Thanksgiving Day. 
And very real thanksgivings were given 
on this most memorable day. A spirit of 
rest and relief was in the land. We have 
been over here just fifty days, we have visited 
about fifty Universities, we have travelled 
some five thousand miles, and have met some 
fifty thousand professors, or so it seemed tc 



126 The Voyage of 

me, and we were tired and rather New- 
World-wom. Hence we accepted the kind 
invitation of our more than kind host and 
took a couple of days off. We were rewarded 
and our proceeding was sanctioned by the 
weather, for we had a typical Texan day, a 
warm sun, a cool but not cold day, and a 
cloudless blue sky. 

The officers of the 57th Regiment invited 
me to a dinner and dance they were giving 
to the General in command. It was an 
admirably managed affair. The meal was 
served on long tables set around the ball- 
room and between each course the young 
people danced to the music of the regimental 
band. I felt quite like an ancient Roman. 

Sydney Smith used to say that the highest 
form of human happiness was "eating pate- 
de-foie gras to the sound of trumpets." I 
have never tried this, but I feel convinced 
that eating pineapple-salad to the dance 



A Vice-Chancellor 127 

music of the 57th Regiment's band makes a 
very good second. 

Friday, November 29th 

After fixing up our tickets for the 
journey to Boston I had time to visit the 
hospital at the Logan Camp. The wards 
are "open air" and the abundance of mos- 
quito wiring was evidence of a trouble from 
which we at home are almost free. The 
kitchen, with every conceivable device to 
save labour, was spotlessly clean and owing 
to a native skill in cooking and an abundance 
of most varied foods, the patients are better 
fed than with us. 

We felt sorry to leave Houston. Our 
hosts were kind beyond measure. They all 
conspired to make us feel we were not guests 
but members and popular members of the 
family, and they fully succeeded. We were 
sorry to leave "the darkies," they were so 
willing to help and so anxious to oblige. 



128 The Voyage of 

As they told our hostess, they knew at once 
we were English because they could not 
understand a single word we said. Their 
smile and general cheerfulness deserve many 
marks. Their philosophy ought to teach us 
a lesson. One who was asked why negroes 
never commit suicide replied, "Well, Boss, 
it's jes' lik' dis — White man sit down an' 
worries about his troubles till he jes' goes 
an' shoots hisself. Niggah sit down and 
worries about his troubles an' jes' nachally 
fall asleep." Surely the better way. 

Saturday, November 30th 

St. Andrew's Day. 
We traversed half of Texas in the night, 
and part of Louisiana; at New Orleans we 
changed trains and Depots early in the morn- 
ing and then we traversed Mississippi. Until. 
we had left Mobile we were never far from 
the Gulf, and we were passing through 



A Vice-Chancellor 129 

scenery like that of the everglades of Florida. 
We saw innumerable sluggish waterways, 
turbid, almost stagnant, streams with low 
muddy banks, the flat land clothed with a 
tangle of sub-tropical vegetation, the trees, 
never large, bearded with streamy lichens, 
"Spanish-moss" as the term goes, stood out 
of a matted impenetrable undergrowth still 
green but so tired-looking I Except for the 
buzzards, which are ubiquitous, we saw little 
or no bird life. 

Alabama provided us with such a sunset 
as I have never before seen, not even in 
South Africa or in Egypt. A vast continent 
of molten gold, with opal lakes and inlets 
of the sea, and here and there black patches 
like cities set on their shores. No words can 
describe it. Some one placed "in a golden 
chair" had splashed "at a ten-league canvas 
with brushes of comets' hair." It lasted fully 
an hour, but only the Boy and the Knight 
and I watched it. Its glory was concealed 



130 The Voyage of 

from our fellow-travellers who for most part 
slumbered and slept. 

Sunday, December 1st 

On a Pullman car one learns much 
about the legislation of the several States. 
The varying injunctions are printed on the 
bills-of-fare and suggest fertile subjects of 
conversation with one's fellow-travellers. 
For instance, it is forbidden in Tennessee 
and in Indiana to sell cigarettes. Apparently 
one may buy them and the tobacco shops are 
open and flourish, but their sale is forbidden. 
We kept east of Tennessee and were quite a 
long way off Indiana. In Georgia the Legis- 
lature has forbidden all tipping, but we only 
passed through a comer of Georgia and the 
kindly railway authorities, ever mindful of 
the welfare of their dining-car waiters, had 
so arranged the time-table that we passed 
through this comer between meals. 

When I first arrived in New York, thirty- 



A yice-Chancellor 131 

two years ago, I put up at the Windsor 
Hotel, long since burned down. Tipping 
was not very prevalent in those days. There 
was a kind of attitude of a people "too 
proud" to tip, though I have never actually 
met anyone who refused to take one. Still, 
you didn't tip the men who looked after your 
hat whilst you were dining. These were very 
wonderful men. They gave you no check, 
and as you left the dining-room they prided 
themselves on handing you back the right 
hat. Coming out just before me a gentle- 
man received a hat which made him exclaim : 
"That's not my hat!" "I don't know whether 
it's your hat or not," said the hat man, "it's 
the hat you g've me !" Nowadays you very 
soon spend the cost of your hat in gratifying 
the hat-guardians if you lunch or dine in 
restaurants or hotels at all frequently. 

You now receive a check but the checking 
is not so accurate as the batmen of the 
'eighties. Coming away the other day after 



132 The Voyage of 

lunch one heard a fellow-luncher saying to 
his companion, "What on earth did you give 
that fellow ten dollars for?" "Well, look at 
that coat he has given me," was the response, 
as the happy tipper exhibited a five-hundred 
dollar fur-lined coat. 

All through Georgia and the two Carolinas 
the cotton crops were awaiting picking. 
What with one thing and another the harvest 
down south lasts half the year. We passed 
a number of modern cotton factories en- 
gaged, as the conductor told us, in the manu- 
facture of "domestics." At Lynchburg, Va., 
we bought some persimmons, but eating per- 
simmons is to "snatch a fearful joy" and we 
soon desisted. 



Monday, December 2nd 

Owing to engine trouble we were late 
in reaching Washington; however we did 
get there between 2 and 3 a.m., and found 



A Vice-Chancellor 133 

the city, on the eve of the President's fare- 
well address, fast asleep. During the morn- 
ing we went shopping, saw some old friends 
and some Senators. No matter where they 
come from, Senators seem to acquire a certain 
"facies" as zoologists term it, something 
between that of a popular preacher and an 
important tragedian. They are readily rec- 
ognised by a systematist. 

We visited the enormous grounds of the 
Bureau of Standards, covered with countless 
laboratories in which every conceivable 
article used by the Government is tested and 
analysed. We also saw the well-equipped 
Zoological Gardens, open free to all, main- 
tained "by the people and for the people." 

In the evening we left for Boston, our 
fourth consecutive night on the cars. 

Tuesday, December 3rd 

We were put up again in our old 
home at Cambridge by the ever hospitable 



134 The Voyage of 

President of Harvard and his kindly wife, 
and were delighted to find there was for one 
day nothing particular to do, and in the 
words of the poet we "did it very well." 

Wednesday, December 4th 

This morning we attended the twen- 
tieth Annual Meeting of the "Association 
of American Universities" which consists of 
the Presidents and certain of the Deans of 
the several Universities. It is perhaps the 
most important educational body we met, 
and the discussions in which we took part 
were on a high level. In the evening we 
were hospitably entertained at the Harvard 
Club. 

The witty and good-humoured "sparring" 
between the Presidents of two of the oldest 
American Universities called to my mind in 
an inverted sort of way a conversation 
between two wealthy New Yorkers, both of 



A yice-Chancellor 135 

whom were wedded to wives with social am- 
bitions. "Is your wife entertaining this 
season?" said one to the other, about Christ- 
mas time; "Not very," was the sad reply. 



Thursday, December 5th 

Neither the Boy nor I have quite got 
over our four days' continuous trip from 
Texas to Massachusetts. He has been writ- 
ing and reading most of the time and revel* 
ling in certain rare early editions of Edgar 
Allan Poe which he has found in the Harvard 
University Library. I have felt so tired that 
to-day I stopped in bed until tea-time. I feel 
as Pinkerton did, "I want to lie on my back 
in a garden and read Shakespeare and E. P. 
Roe," only it's snowing outside. 

This meeting of the "Association of Am- 
erican Universities" is the last item of our 
official programme and we rather character- 
istically brought our Mission to an end by 



136 The Voyage of 

cutting a Session of the Deans in the evening. 
It was snowing heavily out-of-doors and we 
stopped at home — for it is a home — turned 
down the lights and told ghost stories. 

This seems a suitable date to close this 
diary. We shall have, by the time we reach 
home, travelled about twice the diameter of 
the earth, and everywhere we have met 
friends, and nearly everywhere we had fine 
weather, for the heavens smiled on our 
Mission. 

A highland minister, a mystic and a man 
of blameless life, went out to the Front as 
"padre" to a regiment largely recruited from 
his district. He was one of those unhappy 
mortals who believed that for him there was 
no hope. Every now and then he could not 
refrain from seeking human sympathy, and 
one day, pouring out his troubles to a blue- 
eyed subaltern, he ended his discourse by 
saying, "I veritably believe I am the wicked- 
est man in France." "Yes, Sir." said the 



A Vice-Chancellor 137 

boy, "but you must remember what a deuce 
of a good time you must have had." 

I think we shall all go back to our country 
remembering "what a deuce of a good time" 
we have had. 

And here, if I may quote the words of 
the unknown author of the Maccabees: 

And here will I make an end, 

And if I have done well, and as is fitting the 
story it is that which I desired, and if slenderly and 
meanly, it is that which I could attain unto. . . . 
And as wine mingled with water is pleasant and 
delighteth the taste, even so speech, finely framed, 
delighteth the ears of them that read the story. 

And here shall be an end. 



University Education in 
the United States 



University Education in 
the United States 

THE universities in America and 
Canada have been built up on very 
much the same plan, and what is 
said in this article applies almost equally to 
both the States and the Dominion. In their 
constitution and staff they vary inter se as 
much as do the universities of England, 
Scotland, and Ireland. This is equally true 
of their curricula and of their buildings. 

Let us consider, in the first place, the 
buildings. These are sometimes in the heart 
of a big city, like Columbia University in 
New York City, Chicago University, Yale in 
New Haven, the University of Tulane in 
New Orleans, Harvard in Cambridge, and 

many others. Sometimes they are in small 
141 



142 University Education in 

towns hardly larger than villages, as in the 
case of Princeton and the North-Westem 
University at Evanston, Illinois, and the 
University of Wisconsin at Madison. Some- 
times the buildings are scattered over large 
areas, and some of the departmental build- 
ings may be separated from the main univer- 
sity by many miles. At the North- Western 
University just mentioned, the Schools of 
Medicine and Law are situate in the heart of 
Chicago, perhaps fifteen miles away from the 
central institution. 

As a rule the ground upon which the build- 
ings are scattered is called the * 'campus," but 
at Harvard it is known as the "yard," and a 
Harvard man is as irritated by a stranger 
calling his "yard" the "campus" as is a Cam- 
bridge man when anyone applies to his 
College "courts" the Oxford term "quads." 
The size of the universities also differs great- 
ly. There are some with seven, or even more, 
thousand students. There are other institu- 



The United States 143 

tions of university standing with only a few 
hundreds. But no American is frightened by 
size ; and some of the leading educationists in 
the United States contemplate without a 
qualm the growth of their institutions and 
the number of their students until they reach 
twenty or thirty, or even forty thousand. It 
is not, however, easy to get at really definite 
numbers, i.e., the number of students who 
are actually reading for degrees. The Sum- 
mer Courses, which are a great feature in 
some universities, and do not exist at all in 
others, swell these numbers; but the summer 
visitor is seldom reading for a degree. 
Indeed, I came across one lady who helped 
in this direction by taking her "summer 
course" of swimming in the really admirable 
university swimming-baths in the heart of 
one of the most heated cities of the Eastern 
coast. 

The older universities, such as Yale and 
Harvard, have a certain pride of antiquity 



144 University Education in 

and of race, and just as we are apt to say in 
England, " He must be a Duke or he couldn't 
afford to 'dress so shabbily,' " so they seem to 
exhibit a certain indifference to appearances. 
Some of their buildings are charming and 
suitable, others struck one as wanting closing 
*'for cleaning and 'repairs.' " They are scat- 
tered about in great commercial cities, and 
they almost necessarily lack unity of design. 
Places like the University of Chicago and 
the Washington University at St. Louis, or 
the Rice Institute of Texas, have been built 
at one time and by one architect, or at any 
rate by one firm of architects, and they have 
a unity in architecture and in proportion. 

The Roman Catholic universities seem to 
be particularly successful in selecting beauti- 
ful sites, with wide vistas both of town and 
country. They show an abiding faith, they 
build for all time, and they will wait for 
years to get the site they desire. Some of 
the chapels and public rooms in these in- 



The United States 145 

stitutlons are most charmingly decorated. 
Some of the newly built universities, such 
as Columbia, the Rice Institute in Texas 
(for it is in effect a university), the Wash- 
ington University at St. Louis, have very 
noble approaches ; long spacious avenues, and 
stately steps lead to their portals. Mechani- 
cal locomotion is now so universal in America 
that the authorities do not hesitate to "pitch 
their tent" well out into the country, and 
usually on a height with a commanding view. 
The American is bold in his plans, and 
buildings like the Massachusetts Technologi- 
cal Institute or Harvard Medical School are 
notable additions to the architecture of no- 
table towns. As a rule within the buildings 
the staircases and passages are wide and 
spacious; elevators abound; and drinking 
water is laid down which bubbles up at 
frequent fountains. The dryness of the at- 
mosphere in the rooms, which to the Euro- 
pean seem very overheated, makes this pro- 

10 



146 University Education in 

vision necessary. A curious feature of Amer- 
ican life is a distrust of the sun. The sun 
in the United States is a national asset, but 
even in the middle of the day the blinds will 
be drawn half-way down the windows and 
then the natural light of the heavens is sup- 
plemented by artificial illumination. Even 
if one left one's hotel room for half an hour, 
one always found on returning the blinds 
which one had drawn up were carefully and 
accurately drawn half-way down again. The 
lecture rooms are, as a rule, admirably 
adapted for their purpose, and the larger 
ones seem to possess almost perfect acoustic 
properties. The sitting accommodation is 
also a great improvement on the usual 
benches or chairs of European institutions. 

In the last thirty years great efforts have 
been made to introduce artistic features into 
the colleges, and even into some of the busi- 
ness rooms, and especially is this the case in 
some of the ladies' establishments. Their 



The United States 147 

bigger halls are decorated with really fine 
frescoes, or hung with noble pictures. The 
university libraries are on a very large scale. 
The books are easily and readily accessible. 
Any book that one requires is found for one 
in an astonishingly short time, but access to 
the shelves, which is such an enormous con- 
venience to the student in the University of 
Cambridge, is not usually allowed. One 
feature of the more modern libraries is that 
each professor has a room assigned to him 
within its walls. True, it is generally a small 
room, but it enables him to meet his pupils 
in the library, and to draw their attention to 
literature "ancient and modern." The libra- 
ries are open longer than with us — from 9 
A.M. till 10 P.M. At a ladies' college we heard 
that the library was open night and day, so 
that if a student had a brilliant idea in the 
middle of the night, she could fling on her 
dressing-gown and flv down to the library to 
verify her references before she forgot all 



148 University Education in 

about it. Many of these libraries have 
special collections of books which are periodi- 
cally sent for short periods to country centres, 
on somewhat the same system as the Local 
Lectures Syndicate at Cambridge loans books 
to local centres. A good example of such a 
circulating library is found in the McGill 
University at Montreal. 

Some of the colleges occupy very large 
areas, for instance at Vassar, at Poughkeepsie 
on the Hudson, the campus contains more 
acres than there are lady students in the 
college, though there are many of them. This 
is by no means an isolated case. Princeton 
has lately bought up almost all the land 
between itself and the main railway line, 
and has recently excavated an artificial lake 
three miles long and in places three-quarters 
of a mile wide with money provided by Mr. 
Carnegie. Many of the universities have 
gigantic stadia, capable of seating forty to 
sixty thousand onlookers, for athletics play 



The United States 149 

a very considerable part in the life of an 
American university. Talent is got hold of, 
and in some cases, perhaps not directly, is 
subsidised. Enormous crowds collect together 
to watch inter-university tests, and feeling 
runs very much higher than with us. Many 
alumni travel thousands of miles to watch 
these matches, and to add their voices to 
their college yell, which is considered to have 
a stimulating effect on the competing teams. 



It should be understood that the Federal 
Government does not control education in 
the United States. To some extent it co- 
ordinates the educational systems of the 
different States, but the chief function of the 
Bureau of Education seems to be to issue 
reports — and very lengthy and able they 
often are — on the education of the whole 
country. At present it has little executive 
power, and the power controlling education 



150 University Education in 

in the United States is split up among forty- 
eight self-governing Commonwealths, or 
forty-nine if we include the District of 
Columbia where alone the Federal Govern- 
ment has control. Each State provides by 
law elementary education at the public 
expense. Children generally enter the school 
at six or seven years of age and leave eight 
years afterwards. Further, in each State 
there are public secondary schools called high 
schools, which continue the education of the 
people for another four years ; and it is these 
high schools that provide the bulk of the 
material for the universities. There is a 
recent and growing tendency for these schools 
to specialise and to train their students in 
"vocational" courses. Further, there are "nor- 
mal schools" occupied with the training of 
teachers. Alongside these public institutions 
are numerous elementary schools, high 
schools, normal-schools, and even colleges, 
which are associated with various religious 



The United States 151 

sects. For instance, the Roman Catholics 
control the education of a million and a 
half students, and these non-public institu- 
tions are allowed perfect freedom by the laws 
of every State. Such a multiplicity of 
educational authorities necessarily implies 
great variety in the standards exacted, which 
is usually lower in the newer and Western 
States than it is in the East. 

One of the difficulties of understanding 
the American universities arises from the use 
of the word "college" for very widely differ- 
ing institutions. Till the middle of the nine- 
teenth century America did not use the larger 
word "university," and was content with 
"college." Universities practically did not 
exist, or rather they existed, but were called* 
colleges. The oldest of these was Harvard 
College, founded in 1636 by John Harvard 
of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, who ob- 
tained immortality perhaps at a cheaper rate 
than any other human being, for his endow- 



152 University Education in 

ments only amounted to a few hundred 
pounds and a few books. These colleges 
were founded largely on the experience of 
Cambridge, and many of the first teachers 
came from East Anglia. At the beginning 
they were content with teaching classics, 
philosophy, and mathematics, and were in 
the main a training centre for the Ministry. 
Later other faculties arose. 

Colleges developed into universities along 
three lines of evolution. Whilst continuing 
to teach the "liberal arts," some advanced 
further and established special professional 
schools of theology, law, and medicine. Thus 
they became training grounds for professional 
men. Further, there was a considerable de- 
velopment in pure and applied science. The 
establishment of the degree of B.Sc. corre- 
sponded with the building up of schools of 
engineering and other strictly professional 
courses. But perhaps the principal change of 
the last fifty years has been the foundation of 



The United States 153 

numerous post-graduate schools, largely 
moulded by German influence. The dedica- 
tions of the Johns Hopkins University at 
Baltimore in 1867 to post-graduate study, 
and post-graduate study alone, gave an 
immense impetus to the development of 
higher learning and research. At the present 
day undergraduates are admitted within its 
walls, but this change does not meet with 
universal approval in Baltimore. These post- 
graduate schools provide courses leading to 
the M.A. and Ph.D. degrees. 

The establishment of these special colleges 
or schools within a college is more or less a 
critical period of the metamorphosis of a 
college into a university. Princeton, which 
was only a college until comparatively 
recently, is regarded as justified in assuming 
the title of university, by the formation of 
its magnificent post-graduate school under the 
control of Dean West. With the growth of 
these graduate schools new subjects were 



154 University Education in 

introduced. Columbia University, for in- 
stance, offers the B.A. degree in forty-five 
different subjects, and other universities in 
almost as many. 

The word college is also used by a very 
large number of institutions, some of them 
of considerable size, but as a rule smaller than 
the universities, but which play a large part 
in the education of the country. Some of 
these colleges still retain a close and restric- 
tive connexion with some religious denomina- 
tion, but the gilded unsectarianism of Mr. 
Carnegie has done much to break this down. 
Against this secularisation several of the 
Quaker colleges around Philadelphia have 
stood out, and characteristically have not 
suffered in pocket. One of the few educa- 
tional institutions in America which has an 
English clientele is the Quaker college of 
Haverford in Pennsylvania. Some of the 
leading Quakers in England regularly send 



The United States 155 

their sons to Haverford for their college 
education. 

In general the main difference between a 
college and a university may be expressed by 
saying that a college provides courses in the 
sciences and liberal arts which lead to a first 
degree, such as B.A. or B.Sc, whereas a 
university comprises one such college, and 
also several post-collegiate schools, the ad- 
vanced studies of which lead to post-graduate 
degrees in arts, sciences and professional 
subjects. 

But, as already indicated, another striking 
difference between the college and the uni- 
versity is that of size. Colleges usually 
number from a hundred to five hundred, 
whereas the university has many thousands 
of students. Hence individual attention is 
far more common in a college than in a uni- 
versity, and th'S may possibly account for the 
claim that the colleges have produced a 
larger percentage of really eminent men and 



156 University Education in 

prominent citizens in all walks of life than 
have the universities. 

Members of an American college are pas- 
sionately devoted to the institution which has 
nurtured them. They become almost fa- 
natical champions and partisans of their col- 
legiate homes, and generously attribute any 
success they achieve in after life to the train- 
ing which thej have received there. 

In every State but one or two there are 
now established State universities where the 
education is said to be free — that is to say, 
the State pays for the teaching. The ex- 
penses of residence, clothes, food, books, 
college, and travel subscriptions to the vari- 
ous clubs, of course fall on the student. The 
State legislatures control the expenditure of 
the university, and at Madison the professors 
of the State University of Wisconsin and 
the State legislators inhabit the same charm- 
ing little city to their mutual and reciprocal 
advantage. 



The United States 157 

Growth of the State universities, which 
is marked in recent years, is not inimical to 
other universities in the same State. Rather 
it seems to benefit them by producing a 
healthy rivalry. There is, of course, a 
tendency in the State universities to specialise 
in directions which will most help the pros- 
perity and the well-being of the State in 
which they are situate, and this is equally 
true of the civic universities, such as Cin- 
cinnati and others. The services of the staff 
of both State, civic, and endowed universities 
are very much more at the disposal of the 
community, or at any rate are more called 
upon than they would be in similar cases in 
Europe. The Federal Government fre- 
quently asks for and obtains the aid of the 
college and university presidents for inter- 
national work. They are for a time 
"seconded" and sent on special missions, or 
made for some years ambassadors at some 
important capital. For instance, President 



158 University Education in 

Angell, of the University of Michigan, was 
once ambassador at Constantinople, and once 
ambassador at Pekin, and he further served 
as the head of a very important mission to 
Great Britain. 

The medical schools in connexion with the 
universities, such as we have seen at Harvard, 
in Cincinnati, and St. Louis, are the most 
wonderfully equipped that I have come 
across. What the young doctor does when 
he returns to practise in his village or small 
township, having been brought up in such 
institutions, it is difficult to understand. In 
the hospital he is trained in the very latest 
phase of scientific investigaton and medical 
technique ; at home these resources are denied 
him, even if his patient could afford them. 

In many of the universities each student 
pays an annual tax of $5.00, which goes to 
form a Students' Medical Insurance Fund 
against disease or accidents. For this sum 
medical advice is given free, nursing is 



The United States 159 

supplied free, and housing in a nursing-home, 
and special food for a limited period. Severe 
and lengthy cases are charged extra. In one 
of the State universities — Michigan — five 
full-time doctors were occupied in attending 
to the health and hygiene of the students, 
male and female. 

Physical culture is carried on much more 
fully and universally than with us, and in 
the "land grant" State universities army 
training is in force throughout the student's 
career. 

Schools of journalism are common in 
American universities, and some of them have 
a very large number of pupils. It is very 
common in the United States to meet men in 
very substantial positions who started life as 
journalists. Many of the reporters are 
charmingly dressed young ladies, which adds 
to the difficulties of evading an interview. 
Horticulture is taught on a large scale at 
some of the State universities, and classes in 



i6o University Education in 

commerce are widely spread. Here account- 
a' cy, commercial law, stenography, type- 
writing, and a little history and French are 
taught, and these vocational studies are 
somewhat mitigated by the student having 
to take some classic English author. One 
friend of mine was at the University of Penn- 
sylvania broadening his mind by reading the 
classical works of Stevenson and of Kipling, 
but, I regret to say, he did not think much 
of either of them. At the North- Western 
University there is a School of Oratory, the 
products of which we had but little oppor- 
tunity of testing. 

At the American universities all cere- 
monial functions are cafried out with great 
solemnity and dignity. The students take 
part in the proceedings and act as hosts to any 
distinguished guests that may be giving 
special lectures or receiving honorary degrees, 
and there is none of that humorous, but to 
the Public Orator trying, interruption of his 



The United States i6i 

stately periods. The whole of the proceed- 
ings are most carefully thought out and pre- 
ordained. There is always a University 
Marshal, generally one of the senior profes- 
sors, who carries a baton and arranges the 
procession. On these occasions the Univer- 
sity Musical Club generally plays a conspicu? 
ous part, and very often in the large towns 
the civic musical societies lend their help. 

American undergraduates are very demo- 
cratic, but there is nothing very surprising 
about that. It is common feature of all 
universities, even of the oldest, such as 
Bologna or Paris. What is surprising is the 
autocratic nature of the government in all 
their higher educational institutions, whereas 
Oxford and Cambridge are so democratic that 
little or no progress can be made. In Eng- 
land every M.A. who keeps his name on the 
boards of his college — and these "boards" 
actually exist in the form of long planks with 
the names inscribed in large letters — has a 

11 



i62 University Education in 

vote which he can use as he thinks fit. The 
body of these M.A.'s, amounting to some 
thousands, is the governing body of these 
ancient universities. In America each college 
has a President, though the title varies 
slightly. For instance, there is a Chancellor 
at the Washington University at St. Louis, 
and a Provost at the University of Penn- 
sylvania. Above the President stand the 
Trustees or Regents, who practically control 
the finances of the university. These trustees 
are men of high standing either in the com- 
mercial or political world. It is a great 
honour to be a trustee of a university, and 
however elected, the body is generally one of 
great distinction, and it works hard. Many 
of the lavish endowments which pour into 
these institutions are due to the activities of 
the trustees who are expected to provide the 
necessary dollars. In the Eastern universities 
the trustees generally co-opt new members. 
In the State universities some at least are 



The United States 163 

elected by the people and at the same time as 
the legislature is chosen. It is a remarkable 
and rather regrettable feature that the 
Faculty is not represented on this governing 
body, for in effect the latter really does 
mould the policy of the institution over 
which it presides. The link between the 
trustees and the professors is the President. 
Sometimes on a small body of trustees, one 
multi-millionaire, by increasing or withdraw- 
ing his financial support, can control the 
whole policy of the college, and there are 
cases where the interference of the trustees 
has not worked for good in the interests of 
the college. The president of a college is as 
autocratic as the captain of a line or the 
head boy of an English public school. He 
can make or unmake careers, and has a very 
large voice in the appointment, dismissal, 
and pay of the professors. 

In each faculty or department of the uni- 
versity there is a Dean — not necessarily the 



164 University Education in 

most senior of the professoriate — and the 
deans play an important and conspicuous 
part in the organization of their institution. 
The deans have annual meetings, and appar- 
ently spend a good deal of time in discussing 
their presidents. None of the staff is paid 
sufficiently. As everywhere else, and as it 
has been for all time, education is the worst 
paid of all human professions. "The cheapest 
thing going to-day," says the Satirist, "is 
education." "I pay my cook," said Crates 
ironically, "four pounds a year; but a philos- 
opher can be hired for about sixpence and 
a tutor for three half-pence." "So to-day," 
writes Erasmus, "a man stands aghast at the 
thought of paying for his boy's education a 
sum which would buy a foal or hire a farm 
servant." "Frugality — it is another name for 
madness I" After 400 years the madness of 
Erasmus has not abated. The presidents 
themselves are not adequately remunerated, 



The United States 165 

and though some have entertainment allow- 
ances, it would go hard with them if they 
had not other sources of income than those 
attached to their posts. 

American universities are not hampered by 
tradition. They are willing to try new 
things, and if one experiment does not suc- 
ceed they try another. For instance, Colum- 
bia University is so attracted by the success 
of the psychological tests used for entry into 
the American Air Force that it is proposing 
to give up its entrance examination, and to 
replace it by mechanical tests, which it claims 
will be able to show whether a boy is capable 
of profiting by a university education. The 
result of this experiment is likely to prove 
interesting, and it may possibly be extended. 
If it does show the capabilities of a boy who 
undergoes it, and thus saves the expense and 
worry of written and oral examinations, these 
might be done away with. One foresees only 
one danger in these physical tests. The Ameri- 



i66 University Education in 

can youth is so alert and quick that he not 
infrequently reacts before the stimulus is 
applied. The historical first-year students of 
the same university, which is never anything 
if not up-to-date, will in future be required 
to start history with a study of the Bolshevist 
disorders in the twentieth century and other 
present-day problems. Earlier periods will 
be studied afterwards, with particular refer- 
ence to their bearing upon the events of 
to-day. 

The average entrance age to an American 
university is about the same as in England, 
and the course is a little longer. Three to 
four years are taken for the B.A. degree; 
about three more for the M.A. There is a 
tendency to increase the length^ of time 
required for the professional degrees, such 
as those in law and medicine. A candidate 
who enters an American college or university 
is expected to have spent four years at a 



The United States 167 

High School, and admission is given to such 
students as have obtained a given number of 
"units." A "unit" roughly corresponds with a 
quarter of a year's study in any subject at 
one of these secondary schools, so that four 
years' study should produce sixteen such 
"units." A candidate has to produce evidence 
at most colleges or universities that he has 
completed fourteen or sixteen "units," and 
institutions requiring less than fourteen 
"units" are not regarded as in the first class. 
Certain of the colleges and universities in the 
Eastern States have co-ordinated their en- 
trance qualifications under a College En- 
trance Examination Board, somewhat similar 
to that which exists in the northern univer- 
sities of England. The standard of this 
Board is high, and a student is generally 
admitted by any of the Eastern universities 
if he has passed the examination under the 
control of the Board in the subjects required 



i68 University Education in 

by the college for entrance. Other univer- 
sities, especially in the West and Middle 
West, and a few in the East, admit by cer- 
tificate, this certificate being a statement from 
the headmaster of the school testifying as to 
the nature and amount of work done by the 
applicant. Such a certificate, if considered 
satisfactory, passes the candidate into the 
higher institution without further inquiry. 
The examination conducted by the Board is 
very complex, but the wind is tempered to 
the "foreign" lamb, and foreigners, of whom 
there is a very large number being educated 
in the United States, receive concessions if 
they can show that they would really benefit 
by an advanced education. 

Within the university the first-year men 
are "freshmen," the second-year men are 
"sophomores," a word which has fallen into 
desuetude in England. Third-year men are 
"Juniors," and fourth-year men are "Sen- 



The United States 169 

iors."^ There is a considerable and rather 
sharp cleavage between men of different 
years. For instance, in many of the luxurious 
clubs which in American universities, to some 
extent, replace the colleges of Oxford and 
Cambridge, only "juniors" and "seniors" are 
eligible for election. A freshman in an Eng- 
lish university is apt to look upon a second- 
year man as immeasurably older than him- 
self, and far more experienced in the conduct 
of life. The same is equally true in America. 
There are certain initiatory ceremonies which 
the freshman undergoes. These vary in 
different universities, and any attempt to 
interfere with them is futile, though they 
are sometimes accompanied with a certain 
measure of roughness. But they all tend to 
weld the newcomers into a "class," and a class 



^ Years ago I was watching the undergraduates scan- 
ning the lists of subjects and of lectures at Princeton for 
the coming year. After a summary and an impressed in- 
spection I heard a sophomore say to a freshman, "If 
we don't look out this Woodrow W^ilson will turn our 
Princeton into a darned educational institution!" 



1 70 University Education in 

is a very important factor in American uni- 
versity life. If you mention you are a grad- 
uate in one of their institutions you are at 
once asked, "What class?" and the class dates 
from the year when you enter college. The 
class hangs together throughout life. It has 
a periodical re-union at its old university, 
when it usually avails itself of the oppor- 
tunity for dressing-up which is dear to all 
mankind, but somewhat more suppressed on 
the eastern than the western side of the At- 
lantic. At one of these re-unions the class 
of a certain year will all appear dressed as 
cow-boys; next year the next class will be 
dressed as Mexicans, and so on. 

Gradually the freshmen sort themselves 
into their various studies and into their 
various clubs. There are fewer opportunities 
in an American university for the great mass 
of the students to engage in athletics, though 
the picked men are made even more of than 
with us. As there are no colleges such as 



The United States 171 

those of Oxford and Cambridge, there are 
no inter-collegiate competitions. There are, 
however, athletic contests between different 
classes. The rigour of the climate prevents 
outdoor exercise during a considerable part 
of the year. Unquestionably, one can play 
in the open air on more days in England than 
in the greater part of the States. This to 
some extent explains the perfection of the 
American indoor gymnasia. Even rowing is 
practised indoors in large tanks, where the 
boat is fixed, but the water travels. 

Musical and Dramatic Clubs also abound, 
and the plays they produce are most admir- 
ably staged. It is far more frequent to meet 
an American student with a banjo or man- 
doline case under his arm than it is to meet 
an English undergraduate with a similar 
equipment. Their play and their music have 
a large part in the unofficial education of the 
young college men and maidens. In most 
of the colleges there is a permanent outdoor 



172 University Education in 

theatre, like that which Bradfield has made 
familiar to us in England. 

The "unit" system is continued throughout 
the university course. One of the most strik- 
ing differences between English and Ameri- 
can universities is that in the latter there is 
no honours course. At Oxford or Cambridge 
a man reading for an B.A. degree can pass 
Responsions and "Mods" or the "Previous," 
and after that devote himself to an intensive 
study of one subject for the whole of his three 
years. In most of the American universities 
a considerable number of subjects are taken, 
and these are not followed very far, at any 
rate not so far as in our honours course. 
Another great difference is that there is no 
one final examination which admits to the 
B.A. degree. On the elective system so many 
"units" a year are taken, and at the end of the 
year the student is examined on each of these, 
and these annual examinations count towards 
the final degree. The only difference between 



The United States 173 

the third-year examination and that of the 
first or of the second year is that it is taken 
in different subjects. Another difference 
which is often deplored in the United States 
is that the examinations are conducted only 
by the teachers. External examiners are 
unknown, so that the student is apt to get up 
his teacher's lectures rather than the subject. 
All the bigger universities have really 
magnificent clubs, where sleeping accommo- 
dation is provided as well as good libraries 
and good dining-rooms. Some of these clubs, 
such as the Harvard Club at Boston, are 
very palatial, and most of the bigger Eastern 
universities have stately club-houses in New 
York. In many small towns, such as 
Madison, where hotel accommodation is 
limited, the University Clubs offer a culti- 
vated and comfortable shelter for college 
men. In others, such as Lexington in Ken- 
tucky, the University Club is housed in part 
of a really magnificent hotel. Many of the 



174 University Education in 

students live in dormitories, or as we should 
call them, cx)llege buildings; but meals are 
not served there, and it is still the custom 
for students to take their meals at various 
dining-rooms, and many students live and 
board in lodgings. Recently, however, enor- 
mous dining halls, some of them of great 
architectural dignity, have been springing 
up, and common meals are served there some- 
times to as many as a thousand or twelve 
hundred students at a time. 

Attendance at chapel varies in the differ- 
ent institutions. At Yale it is enforced, but 
enforced by an "inviolable tradition that an 
institution of age and respectability hands 
down from the past to its youngest sons.. 
The order is not of the faculty or powers 
above; far from it. It is the self-ordained 
task of the undergraduate." 

Those universities which have the oppor- 
tunity at their doorstep, are very devoted to 
rowing. Usually this is on a river, but at 



The United States I75 

Princeton it takes place on the artificial lake 
already referred to, and at Madison on the 
charming lakes which encircle that very de- 
lightful little city. Track athletics, as the 
term runs, is also a favourite amusement, and 
the severity of the winter affords oppor- 
tunities for skating and ice-boat competitions 
denied to the inhabitants of warmer coun- 
tries. Football is a complete mystery to 
anyone who has not made an intensive study 
of American sports. There are all sorts of 
secret cries and code letters, and the captain 
directs the energies of his team by shouting 
mysterious cyphers which mean nothing to 
the outsider. 

After graduation the alumnus seems to be 
even more passionately devoted to his univer- 
sity than he was while actually in residence 
in it. Apart from the large clubs already 
alluded to, there are innumerable associa- 
tions, and in every town in America the mem- 
bers of one university get to know one 



176 University Education in 

another, and cling together like brothers. 
The "class" system is a profound help in 
financing the universities. One "class" will 
put up a dormitory, another will erect a 
new laboratory, and there is a strong spirit 
in inter- "class" rivalry, which is a great help 
to the financial management of their alma 
mater. 

There are a number of subjects taught in 
American universities which are rarely found 
in educational institutions on this side of 
the Atlantic. Perhaps the commonest of 
these is dentistry. Large and fully-equipped 
dental colleges flourish in most of the en- 
dowed and State universities, and to these 
come men from all over the world. In the 
very heart of North America you will find 
students from Australia and South Africa, 
especially in the dental schools, where the 
professors take rank with those of other 
faculties. Veterinary science is also much 
followed, and in the agricultural schools, 



The United States 177 

such as Ames in Iowa, they have an extremely 
complete course and fine laboratories devoted 
to the hygiene of the lower mammals. It 
was at Ames we came across a new discovery 
in vegetable pathology, which is likely to 
open a new chapter in the history of plant 
disease. One of the professors there has 
definitely shown that the "curled leaf" which 
yearly destroys so many million of beetroots 
is due to some organism transmitted by an 
insect; and although this organism is ultra- 
microscopic and passes through the finest 
filters, it evidently undergoes some trans- 
formations, both in the body of the leaf and 
in the tissues of the beetroot. It behaves, in 
effect, very much like the invisible organism 
conveyed by the mosquito, which sets up yel- 
low fever in man. Similar experiments have 
shown that similar causes produce a certain 
disease in the potato. This is conveyed also 
by an insect. 

It would take too long to enter into the 

12 



178 University Education in 

subject of secret letter societies, which are 
banned in some universities and welcomed in 
others. There is a notion that the number of 
"society men" in the colleges is decreasing, 
but at Yale at any rate this is not so. Forty 
years ago only some sixty per cent, of a 
"class" belonged to any society. Five years 
ago the percentage had risen to seventy-five. 
The initiation into these secret societies is 
kept profoundly dark, and although the 
members of some of them have distinctive 
pins or rings which they wear upon their 
waistcoats, ties, or watch-chains, it is consid- 
ered to be the height of ill-breeding to make 
the faintest reference to them. Anyone in- 
terested in the matter can obtain some in- 
sight into it by reading the somewhat sombre 
and certainly prolix "Salt," a novel which 
covers the ground of both the "Loom of 
Youth" and "Sinister Street," but set in an 
American background. If "Salt" be a true 
account pf wb^t happens in the admission of 



The United States 179 

a member of a secret society to his society, 
it would seem that our young American bar- 
barians at play have learned something from 
the Red Indians of the past. On the whole, 
the students are by no means so noisy as they 
were in years gone by; and as in the older 
universities of our land, the traditional 
"town and gown rows" have almost disap- 
peared. 

Many of the undergraduates earn their liv- 
ing and pay their way whilst passing through 
college. Some of the poorer — the Armenians 
and the Greeks — manage to scrape together 
enough to live on by pressing the clothes, and 
sometimes cleaning the boots, of their more 
financially-favoured fellow-students. Many 
students make enough to see them through the 
term by waiting at summer resorts in the va- 
cations. Sir Michael Foster once told me 
that, returning from a lecturing tour in Cali- 
fornia, he was stopping the night in Seattle, 
and was rather surprised when half-way 



i8o University Education in 

through dinner the youth who was waiting 
on him, and who seemed to become suddenly- 
aware whom he was serving, seized his hand 
and said, "Professor, I am very glad to make 
your acquaintance ! Many and many are the 
weary hours I have spent over your text- 
book." The waiter in this case came from 
one of the Eastern universities, and was pay- 
ing his way^ through his course by waiting 
during the summer in Seattle. Others take 
care of some rich man's grounds, or stoke his 
furnaces. There is a strenuous desire to get 
a university degree, and men will sacrifice 
half their time to make enough money to 
spend the other half in preparing for their 
examinations. Another class often become 
secretaries or stenographers to the presidents 
or professors, and there is not that shyness 
in committing the conduct of the university 
politics to the students that obtains with us. 
Many obtain a livelihood by editing college 



The United States i8i 

papers. Some of them not only edit the jour- 
nals, but set the type and print them. 

There are, at present, nearly five thousand 
foreign students studying in American uni- 
versities, and now that these institutions are 
making good in so many ways, one cannot 
but feel that the verse of Miss Mary Cole- 
ridge will become truer in a wider and larger 
sense : 

"We were young, we were merry, we were very, 
very wise 
And the door stood open at our feast, 
When there passed by a woman with the West in 
her eyes, 
And a man with his back to the East." 

For a while the world will wend west- 
ward. 



C 12 88 



